Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Air Conditioning Not Cold Now

My 1999 Contour Zetec is no longer cooling off like it should. Over Labor Day weekend it basically just stopped getting cold. When the sun is down, it cools off okay, but in the day, it's a totally different story.

I shot an Interdynamics Tune-Up See it here! into the A/C system this past weekend, but I cannot tell much of a difference. (Mine from Advance Auto had a different top.)The EZ Charge 134a Auto Air Conditioner Tune Up says it's "a complete AC maintenance product." Just for info., it has
2 oz. of oil charge with O-Ring conditioner
1 oz. of Maxi Cool Performance Booster
2 oz. of Refrigerant R-134a
1/4 oz. of Leak Sealer and Detector

Anyway, it didn't do too much.

First of all, just to be sure, the LOW pressure side is the one in front of the battery right, not the one by the antifreeze bottle??

So, has anyone used the Interdynamics Auto Air Conditioner Complete R-134a Service Kit? See it here! That is my next step I think.

I just wanted to make sure I got the LOW pressure side right and to hear any comments on this kit.

Thanks!

Just in general.

A/C systems have a design oil and r134a charge.

Too little or too much r134a will cause poor performance and too much can cause a hose/compressor failure.

Too much oil will degrade performance. Adding oil to a system without knowing how much is in there is usually pointless. The only way to know how much is in there is to completely evacuate the system and add a fresh, known, charge (This is true for 134a also)

Leak sealer and o-ring conditioner, while they help reduce leaks, they also reduce performance. If the leak stops, it does make it better than no a/c, but it will never perform like new.

I don't know what maxi-cool is, but, if there was an additive that increased performance on this type of system, believe me, my company (Carrier Air Conditioning) would be using it. To my knowledge (A Senior Engineer with Carrier) there is no such additive.

Having said all that, these kits are for really poor performing systems, are are a bandaid to give some performance, not "Like New" performance, regardless of what the marketing claims on the can say.

Evacuating the system, leak testing, carefully weighimg a new charge of oil and 134a is what makes these repairs so expensive. -Having said THAT, many places don't do it right but still charge the high rate -

Finally, many people have winged it, charged their system successfully and are happy with the results.

FWIW, some car fires are caused by overcharged systems that relief the excess pressure through the safety relief valve. The oil, sprayed under pressure, gets ignited by the vaporized oil. So those that told you they did it and had good results, had good results. But it could be different too. BE CAREFUL. KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!

Originally posted by dfrancis011:

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First of all, just to be sure, the LOW pressure side is the one in front of the battery right, not the one by the antifreeze bottle??

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That is correct.

Originally posted by dfrancis011:

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So, has anyone used the Interdynamics Auto Air Conditioner Complete R-134a Service Kit?

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Yes, I have used it, but on my BMW. I was able to check the low-side pressure (which was about 10 lbs. too low), and then add R134a to the system until it was within spec.

It should work the same for the Ford Contour.

If you have a leak, you might want to get a can of R134a that contains fluorescent dye in it (you can get them at most Walmart and auto supply stores). The dye will essentially leak out through the hole over time. If you shine a blacklight on the engine (in the dark), you should be able to find out where the leak is and then act appropriately.

Wal-Mart sells a pressure gauge for not much money, that will show the changes in pressure as the system cycles on and off. The gauge is numbered, and color coded. It's helped me a lot.

I used a similar product, I think it was Interdynamics, but was only 134A and oil. I had to add two cans, but the system works great now. It cycles on and off at about 40-42 F.

WOW! Thanks for the great information Richard. You've nearly convinced me to find a good A/C repair shop here and get it done right the first time - in fact, I think I will do that.

I was trying to save some money, but in light of an engine fire, perhaps it's not worth it. I drive the hell out of this little Zetec, so I can't afford an engine fire. Besides that, it's nearly fall here in the WNC mountains - who needs A/C?

Thanks you other guys for your input. I was going to pick up that rechagre kit with the hose from Wal-Mart too. I'm sure those who are mechanically inclined have success with them, but I'm a dodo when it comes to most under the hood things. Guess I'll leave it to the pros.

L8R!

Your welcome

Wasn't trying to scare you or anyone, just trying to make sure you make an informed decision when you decide whether to do it yourself or not.

While A/C doesn't seem "important" like brakes, there are some things to watch out for. Some have done repairs without any dire consequences, but that doesn't mean there aren't any.

Also, if someone uses the DYI style on the a/c, make sure you wear safety glasses. If the can ruptures, or a hose breaks, the liquid 134a will freeze whatever it hits pretty fast. Frozen eyes don't work well afterward.

Battery work needs glasses too. While I am sure many here have changed a battery without any safety gear, once you seen a battery pop its vents off and spray acid around (or even explode), you may value your eyesight more. I heard the "I changed my battery and it didn't blow up." Well, you can drive without a seatbelt and not get into an accident too. But I still suggest wearing one, as you need to be prepared for possibilities.
Good luck with the repair, I hope it is done well and works for you. Finding competent mechanics for any repair is always a challenge.