Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting stuck spark plugs

That is interesting. I too used copper-based anti-seize and only in between threads.

So besides premature plug wear what else can happen?

I've used a small dab of antisieze on steel plugs in aluminum heads for years with never a problem.
(heat transfer problems - get real! You're not bathing the plugs in antisieze! :rolleyes: )

Overtorqueing? The difference in torque would amount to a couple inch pounds tops. NOT FOOT POUNDS! That's why they give you a torque range to be within... (It's ~140 inch pounds) Remember sparring use of it, not complete immersion folks.

Not using it gets you exactly the problem listed in this thread. (or total thread failure which has been noted multiple times on this site!)

If you are really dead set against antisieze I strongly suggest ONLY using NGK plugs...

...and crank... read my signature... 'nuff said! :p

I felt pretty confident about it but don't know too mush about it. Thanks demon.

As you put it, nuff' said...

One of the other problems with spark plugs and the use of anti seize compounds is that even if you dont feel, see or hear a problem there is almost always one when used. If you torque to the plugs to factory specs there should not be a problem with them comming out again.Sounds like some one stood on the plugs last time they were replaced.Also the chemicals used to cool or frezze the area around plug or the plug itself actullay does just the opositie of lossing them up. Replacing the plugs while the engine is warm is better because the plugs are made of metal that does not expand as rapidly as alminum does. Just thought id put my two cents in. Peace

1995 mystque "Mystify"
fully custom interior
engine 2.0 Zeetech still under construction.

Since steel and aluminum are dissimilar metals there is a current flow between them. This galvanic corrosion effectively welds the two metals together over time. Anti-size compound acts as an electrical insulator to prevent this corrosion from taking place. If you change plugs every couple of years, and don't use anti-size, the corossion causes pitting on the threads in the head. Using a small amount of anti-size (I use a very small dab) will also act as heat sink compound, filling in the small pits and improve heat transfer. Also keep in mind that the Duratec has a tapered seat for the plug, and uses no washer, so once the taper on the plug comes in contact with the head only another 1/16 turn fully seats it.
To get stuck plugs out (as has alread been said) get the engine as warm (hot) as you can without burning youself: the sparkplug hole expands more than the spark plug. It's safest to put plugs into a cold engine for most accurate torque. It's alos very important to keep the socket extension in a straight line with the spark plug, and not cocked to avoid breaking the plug.

P.S. I very recently got my Mystique and want to thank everyone on this list for tipping me off on the ins and outs of these cars.

Dragon fire, If the Aluminum expands with heat, would that not make the plugs tight. I mean the sockets now are expanding do to thermal expansion diferences in metals. The plugs resist heat well and therefore do not change, but the aluminum head would expand therefore making the sockets tight. I thought thats the way it worked! I might be wrong. Makes for a good conversation and keeps this post alive.

Ally has a higher coeff of expansion than steel,the head expands away from the plugs when its hot....

Thanks Terry! Good to know!