Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting stuck spark plugs

my 95 mystique (zetec, mtx, 95,500 miles) has been running roughly at idle and when cold, so i have been trying to take some steps to change this. i changed the fuel filter, which didn't help the problem. i tried to change the plugs today and i could not get them to turn at all. has anyone else had this problem? the best suggestion i have heard so far is spray some penetrating oil around each plug, give it a week, and pray that it works, or else you'll be trying to rethread an aluminum head, which does not sound like a whole lot of fun. i think the original plugs are still in there.

The "best suggestion" mentioned in your post seems the way to go. Just make sure that the engine is cold when you attempt removal.

Definately don't force the issue. If in a week, you can still not get them out, take it to a professional with the STRICT instruction not to force them loose. Sounds like the last time the plugs were changed, there was no anti-seize on the threads.

You can also try some "FREEZE IT" Used on cct. board chips! It makes the area really cold and might allow more play with plugs!(Shrinkage)

I've been working on AL headed engines a long, long time (30+ yrs.). I've done my own Duratec plugs 3 times now. NEVER EVER use anti-seize on spark plugs. Firstly, it impedes the transfer of heat from the plug to the head/water jacket. Secondly, using anti-seize causes an incorrect torque reading. The torque per the Ford manual is a "dry" torque. Using anti-seize gives a false reading.

Spray with WD40 or Liquid Wrench each day for a week. It will also help if you attempt to remove the plugs when the engine is warm, but not hot. Be very careful and use the correct tools. You should be able to start them. If you can get them started, but they're still tight, turn them in a little, then out a little, and on and on. Don't forget to blow out the plug wells with compressed air before removing the plugs. This way no garbage falls down in the combustion chanber. Use a properly calibrated torque wrench when installing new ones and you shouldn't have this problem again.

5 stars for you Brad! I also agree fully with not using antiseize. If spark plugs are replaced at regular intervals and "IMPORTANT" you don't park your car under water, then there should be no need for antiseize!

I used anti-seize when I put in my platnium +4's. Should I take them all out and wipe them clean? They are a huge PITA, so I dont want to take them out again unless I really should. And I try not to park my car underwater, but sometimes you just cant find a damn parking space! Anyways, thanks for the help!! -Nick

If it aint broken, don't fix it!

What are the side effects of poor heat transfer?

Are the duratec heads aluminum? I'm pretty sure the zetecs are.

I'll stick with the anti-seize. But I am interested in hearing more about the detriments of doing so.

Poor heat transfer could lead to damage to the plug as it will go passed the critical self-cleaning temp, to hotter than it should. It may crack the plug or it may wear out fast. Sound right anybody?

This much I do know......
Zetec - Aluminum head, Cast Iron Block
Duratec - All Aluminum heads and Block w/ steel cylinder sleeves

Well, I used anti-seize on my +4's with no problem. Mind you, I first applied the anti-seize, then wiped with a dry cloth to get most of it off. That leaves so small an amount, only that which is required to prevent corrosion, left behind. I was also told by a dealer and part time rally car mechanic for Team Subaru that if you do use anti-seize, use VERY LITTLE and use the bronze coloured stuff. Holds up better in the heat.

Just my .02 worth
Hope that helps.