Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Zetec Performance Timing belt replacement ?

Has anyone done this themselves ? Any problems ? Any hints you can give me ? Do you have to pull the motor mount that sits squarely in the middle of the timing belt assembly ? HELP !!!!! I need to do this right away as my Tour has 67K on it. I don't want to push it much farther without changing this belt. How long did it take you ? I'm pretty proficient mechanically but it's those darned 'special tools' that always trip me up. The 22mm crows foot wrench I've seen people talk of here, what is it ? What is it used for ? Thanks in advance for your help, Ken

In my case, I changed the timing belt and water pump as part of a complete engine teardown, so I haven't tried it with the engine still inside the car. But I think it's reasonably straightforward. Prop up the oil pan on some kind of support, remove the motor mount, undo the serpentine belt, take the plastic covers off, and there's the timing belt.

It may even be possible to do the job without removing that motor mount, but I wouldn't want to try it.

When replacing it you also want to replace at least one of the two small idler pulleys near the base of it, because they wear out from being made too small. If you replace only one, I think it's the left hand one -- it has tension on it, while on the other one, the belt is nearly flat.

If you need to adjust cam timing, you will need a metal plate 0.200 inches thick. But with any luck, your old timing will still be good if you just get the right teeth lined up.

Doing the water pump at the same time may be a good investment. But I'm not sure if you can get it in and out without pulling the pulley off the crankshaft.

According to Fords service CD rom the motor mount has to come as it is connected to one of the timing belt covers, as does the crank pulley because it sits over the lower timing cover. I'd personally recommend replacing all three pullies as they are all prone to seisure and you may as well do it while you have everything apart. The cam lock tool is also mentioned that it must be used as well when changing the belt, in order to hold the cams in position once the belt is removed.

You will have to pull the motormount (and the actual mount under the big metal piece). Moving your overflow canister somewhere else would probably help too. Remove the water pump pulley, then take off the serp belt. Remove the inner splash shield behind the passenger tire. You will now see your crank pulley, on that is a notch. At about 5 o-clock on the oil pan you will see a bump. Line those up together. Now remove the crank pulley. Remove the timing belt covers. You will find a tensioner above the water pump, loosen that and take the timing belt off.

When I did my w/p a few weeks ago I did all of that. I also removed the valve cover because even being careful, I still managed to throw the cams out of alignment. If you want to be 100% sure (I would )take the valve cover off before you take the crank pulley off. On the ends of the cams you will see a notch (about the thickness of a ruler). With the engine at TDC in one position, you won't be able to fit anything in there. If you rotate the engine again (preferably with the timing belt still on ), you will be able to stick said ruler into the notches. These lock the cams into position.

I got everything tightened up and realised that there was still some slack in the belt. Run it to TDC, install the belt and tighten it up. I rotated the engine backwards slightly to pull the extra slack out from between the exhaust cam and the crank pulley.

Everything works just fine now! Give yourself a good portion of the day. IIRC, Chiltons labor guide calls for six hours to do the job (w/p).

Wow, thanks so much to all you that replied, I appreciate it ! It's all those little things that the service manuals don't tell you that make the difference. I printed your info, and will tape it to the windshield when I get to doin the nasty with my Tour ! Thanks so much !

Ken 99 Contour SE 2.0 Zetec ATX, 98 E-350 XLT V-10 ClubWagon.