Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance 65mm TB help......Aussie?

I'm putting mine on this weekend...freshly off ebay for $45. A little TB cleaner and its shinier than my SVT one.

I fully intended to grab one of two threads about the TB install but the forums went down just as I was going to pick up some pics and advice.

There were two good walkthroughs....I know one was done by Aussie and I can't remember the other one (Kaiser maybe?)

But, Aussie, or others if you have any pics/advice about the 65mm TB install it would really help me out tomorrow.

TIA

Have modded some in the past but I weld on more ally and reshape the 'straight' edge to a curve so the egr passages still work...takes a bit longer but works better ...

Thanks Terry, if I had your facilities I would certainly try to play with the EGR, but since it doesn't seem necessary and I don't I'm going to bolt her right up.

My main concern with the install is the throttle cable. The mustang TB has a throttle cable seat assembly that, compared to the SVT TB, has been flipped vertically 180 degrees. This means that the cable will have to be threaded over and behind the plastic assembly to be pointing in teh right direction. I pulled a couple pics of this done off coldair.org and it seemed to work, but I'm concerned about cable length/slack issues. Any help from experienced CEG'ers would be appreciated.

I think you will find that part of the egr passages are exposed (leak) with the Mustang T/B...hence the 'mod'...

really?....ok I'll see what I can rig up. Leaking can't be good

A Dremel with a grinder might be able to achieve the same result.

You will find that the egr passages in the intake manifold are uncovered with the 'flat top' Mustang t/body, this is why I add material to the t/body....

Terry, can you recommend a layman's fix for the exposed passages? There must be something that I could use in place of welding in material.

Also what are the potential effects of the leaky passages and how seruous are they?

TIA

Cathode -

You have to pull the entire throttle plate & rod and rotate it 180 degrees.
Make a throttle stop.
Cut off a stock stop tab.
Modify the linkage.
Plug the bypass port.
Enlarge the stock TB gasket.
Shim the accelerator cable.
Optimize the hell out of it.
I'm sure I've forgotten a few things too...

It is definitely not a bolt on by any means.
Also it has shown to lose power on most every 2.5L dyno'd. Only a few highly modified vehicles with A/F tunability have shown gains with it.

Thanks Demon

I ended up figuring most of that out the hard way.

Did you get it on there alright? It took me about 2 months to get it all figured out the right way.

In addition to the things Demon said, you'll have slack in the cable, easist way to cure that is put a couple rubber washers where the cable and the gas pedal connect to pull it tight again.

I've never dyno'd mine, so I have no idea on the power difference, but I would not switch it back.