Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec Dead 2.5 going to 3.0

My E0 SVT has officially bit the dust-
my bottom end its tinsel town- my oil filter has prob a couple of ounces of shavings and chips in it-

so-
I have the choice of 3L VS 2.5L what to do-
they will in all likelyhood cost about the same- so- please tell me the probs you have been having on your 3.0 motors- id be looking into an earlier split port for better performance.
what do I need to do on the motor to get it to fit? I would be trying to use 3.0 block heads and valves- but As I understand it- the intakes dont fit- so id have to use the 2.5 intake- is this correct? I am a mech and would most likely be doing this myself- so any relavent help would be very appreciated-
also I may be looking into a few hop up parts as well- ie a few kinetics racing goodies-
whats your recomendations for things to do and what to do?
feel free to chime in anytime!

ps- is the SHO shop conversion a good Idea?

RE: SHoshop kit is NOT a good idea as Jason (PA3.0svt) can attest to. Find a good 99'+ 3.0 short block. Use your heads, cams, manifolds. If you want, and based on what you do and the tools at your disposal, I would do some headwork and maybe add the larger 3.0 valves. This will yield a compression a bit more than 11:1 You can always open up the combustion chamber on the heads to lower that if you want. Using your heads eliminates the water pump hassle on with the 99 heads and the intake port hassle on the 00'+ heads. The only downside is the higher compression.
You also need to grind the crank down just a bit to clear the clutch/flywheel assembly. You MIGHT also have to drill and tap a hole for your knock sensor. It seems some of the 3.0's have the same one we do, some use a different one.

Lots of info here in the archives and at Warmonger\'s 3.0 FAQ and DavidZ's Homepage/3.0 FAQ which does not seem to be working right now...

Good luck with the project! I'm sure yours will turn out great.

thank you for the info- I plan to have kinetics racing consult me on this buildup- I do no tknow if I can get a 3.0 or a 2.5- I plan to try to locate a suitable block within the next few days and start from there.

I am very interested in hearing more about your rebuild, check my signature...

Keep us posted...

I will give you a hand if you would like Scot.

SHO Shop's problem is not their product (mostly), just the price. And their customer service.The small problems we had with the block itself were quickly fixed. But I think it can be done for less that $1500 (plus shipping), even with a 0 mile block from Ford. Especially if you buy the block from Bill Jenkins. And if you go full 3L you won't have to worry about blocking off the coolant/oil passages in the block.

David Z posted a little while back that 2001+ 3L Duratecs got a higher capacity oil pump, so that might be a consideration in what to buy. I can confirm something is different because I was going to install a new oil pump, but one came on the block already and it didn't match the one that I bought for a 2.5/earlier 3.0.

Here is David Z\'s FAQ which served me well, but it is geared towards SVT heads on a 3L block. Brad has a FAQ somewhere that I don't have bookmarked.

Whatever you do, make sure you put some tuning goodies and/or dyto time in the budget. I got near 10/10 on the dyno IIRC from just tuning the A/F ratio compared to using the stock electronics with my setup. I bet there is more in there now that I have my spark gremlin killed, fuel injectors installed, and opened up the air intake. Just too poor to dyno.

has anyone had emmissions problems with their 3L conversion?

Jason just got his emissions done a couple months back and IIRC he passed with flying colors. BTW Scot I will be happy to help too.

My smog test thread with results

Passed with flying colors.

How do you go Full 3.0? I am interested because i do not have an SVT so my UIM/LIM and TB are not as good and may not reap most of the benefits. I am looking for an alternative for my ATX (soon to be level 10/TransGO)