Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec Timing problems?

Thank you Mr Noon, my sentiments exactly....

I got mine timed the "right" way. Borrowed a dial indicator from a parts store, find TDC, and set the pointer to zero. Go 'round and do it again for the other bank.

Why is Ford teaching that method of counting links, marking cams/chains, etc??? It may be the quick way but obviously if it's done incorrectly, it's only going to lead to a more expensive repair down the road.

What is required in order to use the degree wheel and dial indicator??? I thought there was some information that was lacking which kept folks from being able to do this method. I would appreciate any advice or help on this matter as I am still a couple of weeks away before I start rebuilding my 3L and I only want to do this once.

Check out this: http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/803.pdf

And all of this page: http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/camvt.htm

Good place to learn.

Edited post after search:

For you guys in need of cam specs.
Intake open = 18 deg. BTDC for both primary and secondary
Intake Close = 52 deg. ATDC for primary
Intake Close = 60 deg. ATDC for secondary
Intake Duration = 250 deg. for primary
Intake Duration = 258 deg. for secondary

Exhaust Open = 61 deg. BTDC
Exhaust Close = 21 deg. ATDC
Exhaust duration = 260 deg.

Found this from Troy in one of old threads. Specific to SVT only, don't think we have SE data. I am guessing they are open and close at .05 as the open to close doesn't equal total advertised duration - but thats just a guess????

SVTNupe

I've got a set of heads for a 2000 3.0L that I would let go worth the money (whatever that means).

Took the Contour into Bankston to fix the timing issue. The car runs, but I swear it sounds like the valves are contacting the pistons {or visa versa). Awful clattery sound. Bankston says the motor is bad, but I purchased it from Greenleaf with less than a thousand miles (gold label). I'm starting to think that maybe the 2.5L valves were damaged when the motor went south.

Crappy Christmas present for the youngster for sure.

Ok, I just have to say this. All I did was read the timing instructions in the ford manual and timed the damn thing. I have a 99 and I'm thinking the motor is actually a 98. However, I turned the key and the damn thing started right up. I put fire to her two nights ago. I actually drove it with a big grin on my face Saturday (yesterday).
My timing chains had little colored marks on them and it was very easy to time it.

warmonger

BTW, after you time the cams and release the tensioners, then just take a ratchet and turn the crank by hand through two full rotations. This way if the pistons and valves touch you can have a good idea that your timing is off. Now I know this isn't perfect advice, but it gets you into the ballpark.

Six,

Check your PM.

The problem with that proceedure Warmonger is that some timing chains are mismarked, some timing marks are worn off due to use, and some people don't know how to keep chain slack in check while lining up these marks. It will get you in the ball park, but the car will still run without imediate physical damage one tooth off advanced or retarded on the cam. The ball park isn't close enough for the poor soul who gets to disassemble the engine a second time because he's one tooth off on one bank or both.

Borrow a degree wheel from an engine shop at the very least. Someone there should be able to teach you how to use it, or at the very least try to find basic instructions online. If you have everything marked down from disassembling the engine, you can run the same degree settings on the rebuild.

Ok.

warmonger