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Nope, that's still too much work (dropping the sub c/w drivetrain). My plan is to cut the heads off the 2 offending bolts and then put the bolts up through the sub and put the nuts on the top. This is the way it should have been done at the factory-but they don't give a damn about making the thing "repair technician friendly".


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Old Henry would roll over in his grave if he knew about this design. Certainly something that can't be repaired with a simple set of hand tools - one of the design criteria that made his cars so popular early in the company's existence.


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Just a short comment on rivited instead of bolted ball joints. Rivits are less likely to come loose so this is a more durable (or as the current vernacular seems to be, "robust") process. I'm not insisting that this is the only good way to do it though.

I do have a problem with Ford not providing replacement ball joints by themselves though.


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Quote:
Originally posted by stingray454:


What do you mean by "well used design"? Is this supposed to mean its been used a lot? Or that its a good design?

Either way, you don't explain how riveting ball joints on is a good thing.

Are you a Ford engineer? The way you defend them, I'm beginning to wonder.


Well used meaning that a lot of manufacturers have put it on a lot of vehicles. No, I don't work for Ford, check my profile.


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no need to remove, lift or do anything with the transaxle when replaceing the left hand lower arm,cut the top off the bolt with a small hacksaw and pull the bolt out from the bottom,when the new arm is fitted replace the bolt with a new one putting it in from the bottom with the nut under the transaxle.
drill a hole through the nut and bolt and insert a split pin through to avid unscrew, woks a treat.
as for the rivited ball joints a bolt on replacement from ford or motor factors is available in u.k,just grind off old rivets remove joint and replace with bolt on version.
cheep lower arms sold by motor factors in the u.k are a third the cost (£30) of fords own, the only problem is the rubber bushings will not last,i fitted my last arms 12 months ago 10,000 miles on and they have failed the mot test, the rubber bush on the drivers side had dropped out and one had actualy split on the passenger side.i have been told from various sources that ford arms will outlast factor arms by up to six times ?

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Quote:
Originally posted by Bradness:
Nope, that's still too much work (dropping the sub c/w drivetrain). My plan is to cut the heads off the 2 offending bolts and then put the bolts up through the sub and put the nuts on the top.


I like that idea! That's what I'm going to do when it comes time to replace the arms. Meaning when I have enough courage to tackle them. laugh

I have a Sawzall that will cut through those bolt heads like butter. smile

Thanks for the tip! laugh


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always remember the bolts are put through the subframe from the top for a safety reason
there will not be a problem inserting them in upside down as long as either shake proof nylon headed nuts are used or the nut and bolt are drilled and a split pin inserted through them.if the nut comes off the bolt drops out!

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We call 'em "cotter" pins over here, mate!


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cotter pins are totaly different over here mate!mostly used on bicycle's

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That might explain why I had the inside of 98 mystique passenger tire go bald to steel belt even after a recent wheel alignment. mad I was told that these cars are hard to align!! (fact or fiction) You decide confused


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