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I have my konis on order. question is this.
Should i adjust the rear struts to be a bit stiffer than the front? My sub box adds a bit of weight back there so i don't wanna scrap when i go over bumps/ have people back there.
1998 SE ATX Dual exhaust Body conversion Nakamichi CD-40z HU Sound by Crystal Mobile Powered by a/d/s M860 AMP My Ride
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Check out how much space you have in your rear wheel wells. You will then know if you should set them REAL stiff. If you still don't know, I'd say there is no need to make them a lot more stiff, just slightly.. There is a ton of room for the tire to go inside the well.. (depending on what side tires you have and how low your car is already..)
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Making the rear end too stiff though will make it want to step out more. Also over bumps on the freeway it will act more squirrely, so don't be to crazy with the adjustment knob!
Regards, Anastazi Father of the Aussie Bar anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music." ----------------------------------- 2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150 8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's. Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502 http://www.geocities.com/qikslvrsvt
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i was thinking kust a step stiffer
1998 SE ATX Dual exhaust Body conversion Nakamichi CD-40z HU Sound by Crystal Mobile Powered by a/d/s M860 AMP My Ride
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Joined: Oct 2001
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I have mine 100% stiff all the way around. Handles like a little go-kart. Thats just my preference though. I'll probably go out and do some adjustment this weekend and decide what I like best because I want to find the best feel for auto-x
><>David<><
"this world has nothing to offer, come back soon." luti-kriss throwing myself an act of my own violation '98 Black SVT- 3949/6535 8k miles ticked away, Eibach springs, Koni Struts, SHOShop CAI, Ford 9mm racing wires, deleted res., lead foot...more to come. http://community.webshots.com/user/svtminiflea
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I had to set my Koni's on the stiffest setting because my tires (on 17"rims) in the rear got scraped on the slightest bump. Of course, I had the Eiback Pro-kit on my setup, which effectively eliminated any wheel well room. The best solution: dial in a little camber on the rear wheels, that's helped eliminate the problem all together. Now if you add a load of people in the back in addition to the sub, you'll have problems hands down (my sub+luggage reaks havoc).
'98 Black SVT #651 of 6535
KKM Intake (Miks Heat Shield in Winters/Drop-in K&N Summers), SHO Y-Pipe, and Bassani Exhaust.
Eibach Pro-Kit, Koni Struts, and Enkei RS5's with BFG-KDWs (215/45-ZR17)
BAER 13" big brake kit+rear baer rotors all zinc washed, cross-drilled and slotted (Greenstuff binding rears)
Kenwood head unit with Infinity reference speakers+1 8" Bazooka Tube fed by two MTX Blue Thunder amps.
Hella Stage II HIDS from hids4less.com.
Recaro Sport Seats trimmed in supple black leather.
And Zymol wax to keep it squeaky clean.
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Fronts - full soft
Rears - somewhere in between
I've found that to be the best combo, for me anyways.
In combination w/ the rear stb and Aussiebar, this thing has no flex. Lotsa fun on on-offramps, tail wants to get upfront. More dangerous, but I've learned to expect it now. First it was a 'woah!' kinda thing, now I know when it will happen and what it will do.
Full firm on all corners is fun as hell, but the ride gets old after a few days.
John
'98 SVT - modded
-15.01@91.8
'95 Suzuki GS500E
-faster than the above
---wanting a Speed Triple or Superhawk badly
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Originally posted by ssmumich00:
dial in a little camber on the rear wheels, that's helped eliminate the problem all together. Pray tell, how did you do this??? :rolleyes: AFAIK, the Contour rear subframe only has provision for adjustment of toe, that's it! I think you are dreaming, or maybe your wheel alignment guy fed you a bunch of poop, telling you he adjusted your camber! These car have no camber adjustment - yet! Terry is working on this if I remember correctly.
Regards, Anastazi Father of the Aussie Bar anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music." ----------------------------------- 2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150 8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's. Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502 http://www.geocities.com/qikslvrsvt
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The addition of any lowering spring set should effectively dial in some negative camber, should it not?
// Chris Root
// '99 SVT
// Aussie bar and other stuff
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Originally posted by L8 Apexing Aussie:
Pray tell, how did you do this??? :rolleyes:
AFAIK, the Contour rear subframe only has provision for adjustment of toe, that's it!
I think you are dreaming, or maybe your wheel alignment guy fed you a bunch of poop, telling you he adjusted your camber! These car have no camber adjustment - yet!
Terry is working on this if I remember correctly. Yeah... I was a little confused by that and the "Eiback" comment...
Kharma is very real and she is one mean b!tch.
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