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I just put water pump #5 on my car this last Friday. The first four where Ford pumps and putting the whole assembly in was easier than just the face. #1 was a broken impeller, #2, 3 and 4 where leaking wheap holes. Pump four (a Ford) I bought about eight months ago, so I believe it was a “re-design” and has lasted about 8,000 miles. This time (#5) I went with the Autozone pump. I ended up taking the whole assembly out anyway to change the face. I just wanted to make sure that the old seal was completely off and everything was as clean as could be. I also replaced a few of the bolts that didn't look right. I torqued down to 18 in-lbs and let it sit for and hour so the gasket sealer could cure. I also replaced the belt and flushed the radiator and block. Then used a Dex-cool at 50/50 for the refill. Hopefully all the time I took will make a difference.

PS. Does 18 in-lbs sound right? That's what the manual said and that's what I used.

Mike
'95 SE, ATX, KKM
78,000 miles and five water pumps

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Quote:
Originally posted by mcastrogiovani:
The first four where Ford pumps and putting the whole assembly in was easier than just the face.


Not for me! I tried to replace the whole assembly first, but I couldn't get all the hoses off. Those spring loaded clamps are a major PITA, and the intake is really in the way. Not to mention all the hoses were stuck on the nipple, even with the clamp removed. So I said screw it and just replaced the impeller side with the housing in place. It was MUCH easier, IMO. I did almost all of the work from underneath the car, where it was easier to get at.


'96 Contour SE, black / opal grey, MTX, every option, KKM intake, resonator removed, Flowmaster Series 40 DeltaFlow, GoodYear Eagle HP's, 115k miles, new paint 7/01. Driven cross-country 4 times.

'70 Corvette Stingray Coupe, Cortez Silver, 454 bored to 462, Muncie M21, too many mods to list, lots of fun. 335 rwhp / 365 rwtq

'02 Corvette Z06, Electron Blue / Black, every option. Stock for now...
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Well, she's in there. I did nothing new this time besides flush, replace, and refill, so I hope pump #5 from Advance lasts me. At least thru this summer! (Lying on hot asphalt on an 88 degree July day ain't fun people!)

I guess I'll try some of the other/newer techniques should this newest WP fail, but I'm gonna be praying to a higher Power in the weeks to come in hopes that it won't. We'll see....

Thanks for the continued input, folks.


-Tim, Former crush: a '95 Contour GL 2.5L, 5-speed. Current love: 2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 King-cab 4x4.
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Tim935, Ford hotline is where you can call a Ford engineer and discuss a specific problem you may be having with a vehicle. I usually will call for electrical concerns. Some of the EVTM's(eletrical schematics)that have been issued in the last few years have been wrong. Alot of wrong information in general in the recent service manuals too. Hard to believe Ford could do such a thing! Hotline can sometimes help with these issues. Sorry, available to Ford employees only. Rick

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Hey Rick,

Would you mind giving us the part number for FORD's latest revision of the Water Pump on the 2.5L Duratec Engine ?


Pete...

98.5 SE Sport Duratec ATX (P66L)
Black Clearcoat on Greystone
DOB 11/21/1997
DOP 12/25/1997
PIAA 510 Super White Driving Lights
SVT CAT-BACK EXHAUST (No Resonator)
DiabloSport Chip (LPQ4) - Engineered To Raise Hell
Too many other mods to list...
Sounds sweet, runs quick...
Crazy Horse Dyno @ 121.4 WHP/129.6 TQ
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I have the napa water pump and it has not given me any problems with about 4k miles. As a former aerospace engineer, one thing I suggest you do when you put the next pump face in is get the bolt tightning sequence. I didn't have it but I was very careful to tighten opposites from front to back and then bottom to top. I think with the aluminum housing and tight tolerances, being off just a little is going to put an uneven stress on the case which when it gets hot and spins, might cause a premature failure of the impeller. Just my 2 cents but when I worked in the industry, this was a very critical issue on hot parts and on the assembly floor, inspectors would check and check critical parts for proper tightning sequence and torque.


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I have the napa water pump and it has not given me any problems with about 4k miles. As a former aerospace engineer, one thing I suggest you do when you put the next pump face in is get the bolt tightning sequence. I didn't have it but I was very careful to tighten opposites from front to back and then bottom to top. I think with the aluminum housing and tight tolerances, being off just a little is going to put an uneven stress on the case which when it gets hot and spins, might cause a premature failure of the impeller. Just my 2 cents but when I worked in the industry, this was a very critical issue on hot parts and on the assembly floor, inspectors would check and check critical parts for proper tightning sequence and torque.


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tim935 Offline OP
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I don't know if I got the bolts torqued exactly to the specified (Haynes manual) "16-18psi", but I did use a tightening sequence similar to your method on all the WPs I've put on.

What is the PROPER sequence? Anyone know?


-Tim, Former crush: a '95 Contour GL 2.5L, 5-speed. Current love: 2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 King-cab 4x4.
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I didn't torque mine because of the tight space and my wrench is a 1/2" drive and there is just so much space in there. Since you followed a resonable sequence, I am wondering if the gasked that came with the pump takes up enough space to leave clearance between the impeller and the motor inside. I read someplace on the board that some the gaskets are different on some of the pumps. Mine was a stiff and thick metal gasket. Other then that, the only other thing I can think of is the pumps are just c**p


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Metal gaskets? Damn. I'm sure that type would've helped me somewhat. All the gaskets I've used have been CHEAP paper-like material. Some have been cracked, bent, twisted, etc. in the boxes they've come in. Not good....

Oh yeah, and the pumps on our cars are DEFINITELY crap! I just got a great job offer on Friday, so if this latest pump goes out again quickly my Contour will (sadly) be traded in on something of the Japanese or German persuasion!


-Tim, Former crush: a '95 Contour GL 2.5L, 5-speed. Current love: 2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 King-cab 4x4.
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