Well the mad_se is really starting to shape up. I'm still waiting on the svt parts (tb, uppers, lowers, and injectors), which reminds me i gotta ping the seller again and find out where my parts are at!
I found an accidental secondary mod the other day. Some of you may want to try this one out. It goes like this:
I unhooked one end of the main spring on the secondary actuator (the spring wraps around the shaft that the imrc cable pulls on, i unkooked the side near the firewall and let the spring unwind about 1/2 turn before it cought on something) to make it a little easier to fiddle around with the cable retention mechanism. I was planning on removing the cable and spring loading it so i could pin the secondaries for a little test without jacking up the timming. Well i forgot to reattach the spring when I got done inspecting everything. It took me several minutes the next day to figure what i had changed, then i remembered the spring. All i can say is that reducing the amount of force required to actuate the secondaries made a HUGE difference in the driveability and responsiveness, the secondaries open so smoothly now that i hardly notice they are there. More on this mod to come saturday....
The headers have turned out to be great, it took about a week for the computer to get used to them. It wasn't easy to notice the difference at first because it adds power across the entire rev range. The sound didn't change much at all, still has that beautiful borla sound, just a bit louder. The best part is the burble and popping on trailing throttle.
I placed an order for an AFE filter to replace the bat filter with, it only cost $60 so if it doesn't prove to be any better I'll donate it to one of the Ga Cegers. The Bat remote air intake is useless, don't waste your money on it. Your better off to buy a maf adaptor and a k&n or AFE filter and spend the other $100 on sheetmetal and gasket material to build an airbox around the filter that draws air from the fender opening.
Now for my mod scorecard:
Borla Catback: A (nice sound good torque a little droney at 2K-3K RPM)
MSDS Headers: B+ (very difficult install hiflow y-pipe and mystery mod will probably give about the same results for less)
Bat remote fiter: C (not worth the money, filter is good but not worth $100+ price)
AFE Filter: A+ (blows the bat filter away, i honestly think it was worth at least 5hp up top)
BAT Pipe: B+ (not a dirrect fit, had to cut one of the bosses down to get the IAT int the air stream)
BAT 19mm bar: A (tightens up the handling)
Hightower Rear Brace: B (introduced some understear, had to correct it with the 19mm bar)
BAT EuroKit: A+ (great for old folks like me, car is solid as hell in a hard corner)
BAT Break Kit C: A+ (more stopping power than i have needed, pads are great in the rain)
Apexi SAFC: B+ (not for the faint of heart, can net you a few ponies but can also screw things up if not tuned correctly. mainly bought it in preperation for large injectors)
Well, the next step is to get to the dyno and evaluate the current state of tune. I'm gussing it may just break 160 hp. The goal is to get to 170.
Well The AFE FIlter arived today. Guys and Gals, don't waste your time with any other filter.... This thing just rocks. Part number etc is:
20-35008 Universal: 3-1/2" Flg, 6" Base, 4" Top, 8" Ht $63.00
And that includes a "recharge" kit with cleaner and oil. Check the side by side
I would like to dyno with both filters, but i already know the AFE will stomp the Bat filter based on the trusty but dyno.
