Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications General Mods WTF??? DMD install problem, need help quick

Finally got around to installing the DMD today, and before I can even start, I cannot get the fricking belt off. There simply is not enough room to slip a driver or breaker bar into the slot on the tensioner to release belt tension. The frame of the car is in the way!!! I can barley slip my breaker bar between the frame and the tensioner with the drive side flat. I would have to have the drive side rotated 90 degrees to fit into the tensioner socket in order to insert it. WTF, FORD???? Has anyone else installed a DMD on or even changed a belt on a Duratech with an ATX? Do I have to pull the damn engine just to change the front accessory drive belt? This thing seems more and more every day to be built like a Chrysler!

Go to Autozone and rent a belt tensioner tool. It's a steel plate with a socket end on it to fit in tight places.

How did everyone else seem to use a 3/8 breaker bar? From what I am seeing, it would be impossible to insert in the tensioner socket. Perhaps this only affects ATX cars, meaning that our engine must sit a litte more toward the passenger side than the MTX cars? As is, there is absolutely no way to get any breaker bar in there.

I know what tool you are talking about, I was just pissed earlier. Guess I have to put everything back together and head to AZ again... :rolleyes:

I was able to remove the belt my removing the splash shields behind the wheel and reaching the tensioner with a 3/8" ratchet from underneath. Very easy to get at this way.

yeah what stazi said.

Been there, tried that. It's not that I can't get a rachet or breaker bar to the tensioner, either from above or below. It's that the tensioner sits so close to the frame that there is no room to insert the breaker or ratchet in the socket of the tensioner. If I did get it in, it would forever be stuck there (and no, don't quote that you sickos )

That sides motor mount is different IIRC for 98+, and there appears to be more room in that area on those cars. There was no way in h@ll I was getting a breaker bar in there on my 97 anyway. From under the car, there is a lip or ledge on the bottom of the tensioner. With a large flat blade screw driver it is pretty easy to get it on that and push up to release tension. Then slide the belt of just one pully and you are good to go.

See my reply at http://www.contour.org/cgi-ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=007268&p=

Well, I got it done. Had to wait for the wife to get home from work with the van so I could go to AZ to rent the tool. Between that and eating dinner, I finally got done. It worked, but I had to get to it from the top. The tool was so long that it contacted the lower control arm and there was no room to relieve tension.

This mod is a serious PITA on an ATX. The only way I could "lock" the engine was by using a socket and driver on one of the torque convertor to flexplate nuts. It took a lot of muscle to break the factory torque on the damper bolt.

I could't find the correct bolt for the installation tool, either. So, I ended up using both washers, various sockets, a box end wrench, and even the key to my locking lug nuts to make the bolt fit. It was a bit too short, but long enough that it would bottom out in the crank with certain socket/washer combos. At one point I even had a socket in a socket, using the larger one as a washer, lol.

Perhaps it should be added to the FAQ that you will need access to the torque convertor to flex plate bolts for ATX cars, and Pre-98 cars will have clearance issues and will need to rent or buy a belt tensioner tool from Auto Zone.

Oh, and I do notice a difference in the engine, though not as dramatic as some here would suggest. Perhaps it is because I have an automatic and the fluid filled torque convertor might act as a bit of a damper? (Fluidamper, anyone? ). It would be interesting to see the number of engine failures for MTX cars vs ATX. I'd be willing to bet that the ATX cars are far below MTX's in failure rates. My engine failed, but I believe that was due to shoddy workmanship at the dealer when they fixed my oil leak (front main seal). I think they turned the engine counter clockwise and bound up the timing chain.

Anyway, I used to feel a slight vibration in the floorboards above ~3200 RPMs. Now it is gone and the engine is electric motor smooth. Very nice indeed, well worth the mod.

agree but this is simply because ATX cars spend much less time at high RPM. Higher RPM = much worse crank whip. Non SVTs with MTX also probably less than SVT because peak power at lower RPM + slower reving = less time in the fun zone. Personally, Im not sure if DMD is needed with ATX (unless it has 200 HP and level 10 treatment...Ford has not installed DMD except on new MTX cars (I think).