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#42236 06/05/02 03:45 AM
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I've seen many engine bay pics with the battery missing. Where did it go? Do Mondeos have a different battery location or something? I've tried to figure it out but I'm puzzled. confused I'm sure there's a how-to or something I missed on search... I'll get my chops busted for sure! I'd like to move mine if possible. Any help appreciated!


1998 Contour Sport V6, Black
*Cold air induction
*Powdercoated intake manifold (more powdercoating coming soon)
*Blue headlights, foggies, and signals (no reflectors)
*CEG stickers & removed door moldings
--------------------------------
1994 Ford Aspire 4-door, looks like a big egg
*64 hp 4-cyl
*5 speed
*"13 steel rims with go-cart tires
*74 mph top speed
*I'm going to auto-x the thing (but not compete)
#42237 06/05/02 05:07 AM
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Try the Trunk

#42238 06/05/02 03:06 PM
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you can get a relocation kit from summit


GO WINGS!
99 SVT Silver w/ Blue Stripe with some mods. mike4420@comcast.net
"To each his own"
#42239 06/05/02 04:45 PM
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you can use welders cable fom autozone if youd like. leave the starter selenoid up front and make sure you have a 2 (0) ground cable.


1985 SVO: 4 cylinders, 5 gears, 20 PSI
1998 torredor red SVT contour: #3705 of 6535
need info on your SVTs service/recall/warranty history? e mail me...
#42240 06/06/02 05:39 PM
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Hey Don, DO you a Mustang SVO???


-Mancho- cars name is Connie
99 Silver Frost SVT #1986
k&n filter with cut out box
true duals w/ flows smile
Ground Controls with 17's mille miglia ...
Hightower headlights
15.4 at 90.29 at Milan dragway before the true duals smile
#42241 06/07/02 02:23 AM
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Any opinions on what the best kit is?


~Shawn Clone~

1999 SE Sport V6 MTX
Silver frost/Midnight Blue
BAT Euro Handling kit, SCA Cold Air intake, painted dash/calipers, Elky's mesh grille, bulitt fuel door,B&M shifter, ES motor mount inserts, OMP front strut tower brace, newest mod- HPP rear strut tower brace ...coming soon, Aussie Bar
Possabilities in the works: Custom CAI, Polished stainless shifter cover plate
#42242 06/11/02 06:14 AM
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You just through u'r battery in the passenger seat, then solder jumper cables to the battery cables and run it to the battery. Now you have a driving companion that corrodes and always has some acid you can share. Try a relocation kit from various companies.


"Wow, that sank fast." "Yeah, like a rock."
96 Contour GL ATX
9mm Ford Racing Wires; 2 Resonators down, 1 to go;"Special airbox"; many mods planned
Sony CD player: 50wattsx4;remote;
Speakers=50 watt Pioneer 6x8s
Ross Evans smile
#42243 06/11/02 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by NorMich99SE:
Any opinions on what the best kit is?
I'm pretty sure the "kit" consists of basically a battery box (much like the one on your sump pump battery backup, if you have such a thing) and the necessary cables. They are probably all about the same, so I'd go for best price.

Unless, of course, you plan to do club racing, or just want the metal box that club racing requires.

Summit Racing sells both kinds, and their pricing is usually reasonable, but you can check around.


"Function before fashion."

'96 Contour SE
#42244 06/16/02 05:47 AM
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Taylor makes a nice kit. I have it. So far so good.


1998.5 T-RED SVT
18" Team Loco 142's W/ Dunlop Rubber
181.2hp@6900rpm/155tq@5000rpm
LOTS OF MODS OF EVERY KIND....
...Am I a guru yet??? No... not yet.
#42245 06/19/02 11:08 PM
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what would be the pros and cons of a battery reposition kit?

Would the wires be travelling in through the interior? And what would the minimum gauge be?
Any serious hazards to this?


if you're bored, here is some info on my slug...
http://members.cardomain.com/trade4mondeo
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