Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications General Mods DMD - just do it!

A new car above 2500rpm!
Well worth the time and trouble.

AL

I'll second that! Thank HMS! Best mod yet, but I don't have a Quaiff. Yet.

Mark

Did you do the work yourself?

Kerry

Kerry,
Did it in a couple of hours and replaced the serpentine belt while I was at it.

There was a good series of photos posted that show the procedure - search the archives.

Be sure to use some black silicone on the crankshaft key and the pulley keyway when installing the new pulley to prevent oil leaks from the front seal.
Also need to install with a new bolt and washer and follow 4 step torquing in service manual.

Perfect excuse to buy an 18mm socket and a harmonic balancer install tool.

AL

where on earth and how much is a harmonic balancer install tool?

-jason

something you can borrow for free from autozone (aka pulley puller)... :p

Mine's on the way (I think... Terry?)

No-no you need a puller AND and installer.

Check out this page-

http://small-business-help.com/pullers.html

OLD-2514 OLD FORGE HARMONIC BALANCER INSTALLER TOOL SET- $32.05
A handy tool for installing harmonic balancers or drive pulleys that are pressed on the crankshaft. Choose from eight threaded adapters with three metric sizes finished in black. Bright luster plate and black oxide. Comes in vinyl pouch. Sizes Included: 7/16"-20, 1/2"-20, 9/16"-20, 5/8"-20, 3/4"-16, m12x1.50, M14x1.50, M16x2.0.

Actually came in a blow-molded fitted case.

AL

whee, finally fixed my multiple problems with the DMD install. It took me longer than par because a) my pulley was stubborn going on, and b) the jaw puller messed up the threads, making necessary a search around town for a M12 x 1.5 tap ("ah, metric? we don't have that."). Some tips:

1) protect the threads! after you remove the original bolt and washer, reinstall the bolt minus the washer. This will give your puller something solid to push on with still enough clearance to remove the pulley. Save yourself the trouble, believe me.

2) Heat won't expand the pulley enough to slip on the crankshaft, unlike the all aluminum u-drive. You can't stick it in the oven anyway because that'll damage the rubber. So I suggest picking up a long bolt with the above measurements from NAPA ($1.84). If you can only find a partially threaded one, that's ok because you can using the two thick washers (you got a replacement right?) to space it. Thread it in with two washers, then one, then with the original bolt, then tighten with the new bolt. Far easier than any other method...

3) I didn't have anyone available to hold down the brake while I was torquing the bolt, so I put the wheel back on, lowered it until it just touched, and used a wobble socket.

Initial impressions:
I can't say what the difference is from stock pulley, since it's been a long time since I've had the it. From the u-drive pulley, there is a noticeable difference. As expected, the ringing noise (like rubbing a crystal glass) is gone and my headlights don't dim at idle anymore (both expected). The engine sounds different, it's hard to describe. It's a low whirring that varies with RPM. I remember a similar change when I installed the u-drive pulley, so I think it's normal. I've had to adjust my shifting because the RPMs drop a little slower. The engine is smoother, especially in the upper RPMs.

All in all, this is a piece of mind mod. IMO it's not "must-do" mandatory, but it's good for engine longevity. Thanks go to Terry for sourcing the part and the helpful and timely installation suggestions. Thanks also to Ed (edorfox) for the tip on finding the installation bolt.

Any performance differences like revs rising slower than with the UDP?

DMD?