|
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 50
Member
|
Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 50 |
Excuse me Big, but theres alot of BUSY people who do not have TIME to waste searching, and they HOPE theres someone KIND enough to help without whining like a 2 year old who's missing his bottle.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,493
Member
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,493 |
The hole is for the Euro spec cars which have side marker lights there.
2000 SE fleet, V6, ATX, ABS, no spoiler, T-Green/tan. Built 01/2000 in MO. Added 12 spoke factory SE rims, K&N. Biggest mod: ESP Plan!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,225
Member
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,225 |
Originally posted by Alex T.: Does anyone know if there is a sidemarker that fits into the hole without any drilling. One that just pops in, or do they all require enlarging the hole. You can use the marker from an Audi A4/A6, all that is required is the sanding/dremeling down of the backside of the sidemarker case, no extra drilling or enlarging of the fenders necessary. This is how I did mine and it was really pretty easy. Take a look in the how-to section, I think there should be one for the Audi sidemarkers. HTH
Ryan
Latest Mod: Mirko Splitter
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 825
Member
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 825 |
Originally posted by MystyMystique: Excuse me Big, but theres alot of BUSY people who do not have TIME to waste searching, and they HOPE theres someone KIND enough to help without whining like a 2 year old who's missing his bottle. That's a valid argument except for the fact that by simply using the FAQ's or search these SIMPLE answers can be found *gasp* FASTER! So, if they really are SOO busy, what is better than an immediate answer? We're talking about door dings here, there are probably over a 2000 posts on this subject alone!
Matthew W. Campbell-- bigMoney Racing -- 1999 SVT #220 "NT4UA" /O.Z. Crono Evo\'s/ /Rear Deck Sub/ -- 1972 Chevrolet C/10 Custom Deluxe-- 1980 Camaro in fewer pieces-- "If I had invested...in IBM or something like that, I would certainly have been wealthy within a decade. Instead, I bought a Porsche...and got a life" Leon Mandel
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19
Junior Member
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19 |
Originally posted by SVTnKC: Hoosier!>??? How did you remove the door ding things.....? Did you have to repaint anything? Let me know please! THANKS! I haven't seen this way posted so I thought I'd give you my 2 cents. After trying the fishing line and getting nowhere, I pulled out the hairdryer, ran it over the entire strip(one door at a time) for a few minutes to get the adhesive nice and warm, then wrapped a thick shop wrag or a light towel over a putty knife and slowly began pushing the putty knife along between the adhesive and the door. It works best if you have 2 people, one to keep the hairdryer going over the strip and the other slowly working the putty knife along. This gets most of the adhesive off, whatever is left over I used wd-40 and a DRY towel. It seems that if you can keep moving the towel around using dry spots, it pulls the extra adhesive off much faster than just your fingers or the already wet portions of the towel. It took me under 40 minutes to do all 4 doors and trunk badges. Hope this helps!
98 contour SE 2.5L MTX resonator removed, sho shop cold air intake, arospeed muffler, painted center ring with grill insert, painted interior pieces, clear side markers, debadged and dingless.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19
Junior Member
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19 |
Originally posted by HoosierContour: You will find a nice little hole under their if its less than 4 years old. I took mine off and had to replace it with a $4 Taurus DOHC 24 Valve emblem. I removed the door ding strips too. Nothing worse than a nicely washed car with wax build up in the seams. Where did you get those $4 badges, I want to replace my SE badges with either 24V DOHC or 24V HIGH OUTPUT, but don't want to pay the dealership prices.
98 contour SE 2.5L MTX resonator removed, sho shop cold air intake, arospeed muffler, painted center ring with grill insert, painted interior pieces, clear side markers, debadged and dingless.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,225
Member
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,225 |
Originally posted by nicks_98_SE: Originally posted by SVTnKC: [b]Hoosier!>??? How did you remove the door ding things.....? Did you have to repaint anything? Let me know please! THANKS! I haven't seen this way posted so I thought I'd give you my 2 cents. After trying the fishing line and getting nowhere, I pulled out the hairdryer, ran it over the entire strip(one door at a time) for a few minutes to get the adhesive nice and warm, then wrapped a thick shop wrag or a light towel over a putty knife and slowly began pushing the putty knife along between the adhesive and the door. It works best if you have 2 people, one to keep the hairdryer going over the strip and the other slowly working the putty knife along. This gets most of the adhesive off, whatever is left over I used wd-40 and a DRY towel. It seems that if you can keep moving the towel around using dry spots, it pulls the extra adhesive off much faster than just your fingers or the already wet portions of the towel. It took me under 40 minutes to do all 4 doors and trunk badges. Hope this helps![/b]I'd be REALLY careful if you do it this way. Definitely do not use a shop rag as they are too coarse and will scuff the clearcoat. If you have to do it this way make sure to use a THICK soft cotton towel. Personally I think you are just asking for trouble doing it this way, a putty knife can do some serious damage...is it really worth a little time savings when you could put $xxx in repainting the door? Just my $.02
Ryan
Latest Mod: Mirko Splitter
|
|
|
|
|