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Something I've been wanting to try for a while since reading Puckpuck's fitting of a microswitch. This takes that concept a bit further and uses an inductive proximity switch to sense when the secondaries are open. No moving parts, fully sealed, the device should perform without trouble. they are used in industrial machines etc to sense position of things, in fact similar to crankshaft position sensors etc. Anyway, this will allow me to monitor what the secondaries opening closing permanently from the driver's seat. Here are some pics of it fitted to my test lower manifold Secondaries closed Secondaries open  I am going to mount the LED in the rev counter, below the centre of the needle Keeps the brain active!! Paul.
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Neat! I really like the idea.
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That's cool! How much is that "industrial sensor" ? I have one in the works that has not moving parts either. I'm testing it now to see if it can withstand the engine temps.
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It cost about $50. here's the tech sheet:- Flush mountable inductive proximity sensors Cylindrical M5 form A case in metal PNP output 2m cable or M8 plug-in connector LED for visual indication of output state and short-circuit protection
technical specification Rated supply voltage 5-24V d.c. Switching capacity 100mA Maximum switching frequency 5000Hz Operating temperature -25°C to + 70°C Degree of protection IP67
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Joined: Aug 2000
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Originally posted by Chris Hightower: That's cool! How much is that "industrial sensor" ? I have one in the works that has not moving parts either. I'm testing it now to see if it can withstand the engine temps. CHRIS!! Build it!! I want one! 
NP-T Speed Factory Intake Magnaflow Race Canisters NP-T Sniper Intake Pipe Optimized 4.6 GT TB Vision Driving Lights Lo-Tek Pillar Pod FMS Blue Wires Clear Corners Short Shifter Side Markers Bullit Door
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love the idea...you could also rig something that woud allow you to override that opening so you could control when they opened...much like a manual choak on a lawnmower or go-cart engine.
1998 Contour 2.5 Non-SVT (ATX) SHO Y-Pipe K&N Drop-in
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You rig something to control when they open and you will be getting cels left and right....
98 V6 Lots-o-mods SOLD 88 Daytona Shelby Z TII (The beast) 87 Daytona Shelby Z TII (Holy 20 psi of boost batman!) Mods- 3" Downpipe, Hi-Flow cat, 3" mandrel bent exhaust with Dynomax Ultra flow. Manual boost controller, TurboXS blowoff, 5th injector, large canister wastegate, Nitrous Express go-fast-be-happy kit, ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, upgraded motormounts, eibach springs, strut tower brace. Oh and 20 PSI to boot.. my oh my...
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There is acutally an easier way to do that, instead of having to yank off the upper manifolds tap a hole and all that. If you unscrew the IMRC box, the motor is exposed, then all you have to do is attach to wires to motor and connect that to a light.
When ever the motor open it will come on and the light will stay on until the motor is denergized. The ECU sends 12V to open the motor, then once it detects thats its open it lowers the voltage to hold them open. Even with the lower voltage a LED should stay on, or you can use a small incandecent bulb.
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2000 SVT Black & Blue #205 of 2150 Kenwood Head Unit
2001 SR5 4 Runner 4x4
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2000 Mercury Cougar V6 ATX. 16.0@87MPH, 155.0 FWHP
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