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Anyone know what you would need to do to put in the 3.2l from a sho. Just wondering.
1996 Contour LX
ATX V6
Ford 9mm blue wires--Bosch platnum +2 plugs-kkm intake--SVT throttle body--Superchip(on the way)--20% tint--side markerlights--Badgeless
Kenwood Cd Deck--MTX mono amp--MTX 15" Thunder 8000(soon)
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$$$$
Don't even try it. It's not worth it.
-Chris
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Joined: Feb 2002
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The SHO engine is pretty tall, too. I don't know if you'd be able to stuff it in there. I'd stick with the 3.0 conversion already out there. That puts out some real nice numbers.
green/black 92 SHO, friend of contours everywhere
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Then there's the ATX, driveshaft, mounts, pcm, harness, clearance, etc problems just to start with...
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Then there's the ATX, driveshaft, mounts, pcm, harness, clearance, etc problems just to start with... Well the 3.2L will bolt directly to our MTX, so the ATX won't pose much of a problem assuming the 3.0 yamaha can be bolted (don't know if it can). You're right about the pcm...some real problems would be encountered in trying to get an OBD-I to an OBD-II, etc etc. Those are some great numbers Demon. What your torque at from 2000-2500??
green/black 92 SHO, friend of contours everywhere
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Originally posted by greenNblack:
Well the 3.2L will bolt directly to our MTX, so the ATX won't pose much of a problem assuming the 3.0 yamaha can be bolted (don't know if it can).
Those are some great numbers Demon. What your torque at from 2000-2500?? The 3L (Yamaha) can not mount to the MTX-75, neither can the 3.2L (Yamaha) The 3L "Duratec" can. About the Tourque... Not only do I never drive below 2500rpm, I definitely didn't dyno that low... This is afterall a DOHC engine. Dyno graphs starts around 2600rpm with a pretty flatline 168 until IMRC (3300-3500 range) Then of course it drops noticeable (down to 150ish) Climbs to 160 by 4800rpm and stays above 160 until about 6000rpm) Then slowly drops off until stock 7000rpm redline. Not too shabby at all for a small DOHC engine IMO... Have to love the SVT cam profiles. HP hits 150 at 4900rpm, 160 at 5200rpm, 170 at 5550rpm, 180 at 5950, 185 at 6500 and flutters until redline (all above 185 - either too much advance or too little fuel or too small upper intake???) With a higher redline the HP will just remain flat until about 8k according to the computer models. Not that you would take it that high (safely anyway)
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
About the Tourque...
Not only do I never drive below 2500rpm, I definitely didn't dyno that low... This is afterall a DOHC engine.
Dyno graphs starts around 2600rpm with a pretty flatline 168 until IMRC (3300-3500 range) Then of course it drops noticeable (down to 150ish) Climbs to 160 by 4800rpm and stays above 160 until about 6000rpm) Then slowly drops off until stock 7000rpm redline. Not too shabby at all for a small DOHC engine IMO... Have to love the SVT cam profiles.
HP hits 150 at 4900rpm, 160 at 5200rpm, 170 at 5550rpm, 180 at 5950, 185 at 6500 and flutters until redline (all above 185 - either too much advance or too little fuel or too small upper intake???)
With a higher redline the HP will just remain flat until about 8k according to the computer models. Not that you would take it that high (safely anyway) Sure it's DOHC, but it never hurts to have a good low end to get the mass moving. I know dyno graphs don't usually start that low, I was just curious. I'm glad you never drive below 2500, but I'm not always on a racetrack, sometimes I just end up below that on account of traffic, and I like to have some oomph to get moving because I'm too lazy to shift to a lower gear. You know, some engines CAN safely go to 8000 (or 8500 for that matter  ). Not that it would be worth it to rev that high. With stock cams power is pretty much done by 7500.
green/black 92 SHO, friend of contours everywhere
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Originally posted by greenNblack:
I'm glad you never drive below 2500, but I'm not always on a racetrack, sometimes I just end up below that on account of traffic, and I like to have some oomph to get moving because I'm too lazy to shift to a lower gear. Lugging the engine is very hard on it. Not something you want to do even if your "are too lazy" to shift. Being "on a racetrack" has nothing to do with it... BTW - If you are "too lazy" to shift - buy an automatic :p That's why they make them.  Like Terry loves saying "If you want to lug, buy a John Deere"
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Lugging the engine is very hard on it. Thanks for the tip, but I think you read into that a little much. I don't LUG, sometimes it just ends up I'm at 2000rpm rather than 2500. There's no need to shift from third to second if I drop down to 2000... Just FYI, driving around town I'm always in a gear that keeps the car at or above 2000 for the safety of the bearings. I know a little more than you might think, it seems.
green/black 92 SHO, friend of contours everywhere
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