Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General General Control Arms replaced and left costs more that right.

This weekend my mechanic replaced my lower control arms based not on any complaint I made but due to his inspection of the part.

So how does a driver know when the control arm's bearings and bushings are worn and need replacing. What are those driver symptom for I noticed nothing?

Also I paid $370 for parts for both and one cost more than the other. The appearance was much different than what was on the car and what is offered by BAT. The replacement lower control arms were not cylindrical in shape like the BAT or flat like ford's but was rectangular in its general triangular appearance.

The way I could tell that my control arms were shot is very poor tire wear. The inside 1- 2" of my fronts are worn down completely. I have lots of negative camber, and my suspension is stock. And it won't hold an alignment. I'm still holding out for the time being for an improved aftermarket control arm.

The part in the BAT catalogue is the vertical bush, later style (post 1998 cars are mixed, my E0 has the older horiz bush style).

How much did you get charged on labor for install, and what year Contour do you have?

95 6cyl lx

2.5hrs labor at the usual 70/hr rate

Interestingly when a repair shop affiliated with an insurance co. the hourly rate is much lower like 38/hr.

Anyway I am currently getting use to the way the car handles in hard corners for it seems as if the thrust angle is a little different while taking a curve. So I feel a little un confident within a curve because I do not know what to expect where as before I did, lots of push.

Should I rotate the rear tires to the front?

I just did a search to see what the price of these things are. I needed a driver's side LCA because of worn bushings. I asked if it was a big job and the mechanic said no, so I said to do the passenger side also. I got hit with $318.50 worth of labor! How the hell can it be that much?

Someone's getting a phone call Monday morning.

You can get them both from Jenkins shipped for under $250. Labor should be around $150 if you don't have close access to Terry Haines. You need to order new bolts (they can just grind the old ones off) or they will have to drop the subframe to get them out. Major labor that route.

Be careful - on the 4 bolt/old style, the bolt that goes under the trans needs a bunch of washers under the head (if installed from the bottom) in order to prevent it from hitting the trans case. As well as something to keep it from falling out (I used Loctice high strength thread locker).

The next time my subframe is lowered (whenever that might be, maybe for a new clutch), I am going to have the bolts re-installed properly.

Because he lied to you or didn't know how much of a job it is. I did it myself and it took me the better part of a Saturday. A lot of it was a learning experience, and if I had to do it again, I could certainly do it much quicker the second time around. But it is a pretty big job.