Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Zetec Maintenance SVT exhaust No.2...Limp0229Bizkit

im getting mine installed by a few CEGers...any good DIY tips?

Penetrating oil. Oil the bolts on the flange after the flex pipe, and all of the hangers to make sure everything comes loose easier. Do it a couple hours before you plan to do the job. What are you planning to do about the length difference??

im not sure. Go to the Capitol CEG forum and you will see we are gonna have a crazy meet. Many things getting installed...headers, exhausts, etc. I assume a few parts runs will be neccessary...

Spend $20 at your local mom and pop muffler shop. Have them replace the studs and nuts where the catback will bolt on.

Should take them about 15 mintues to do this. Maybe a half an hour of your time total including your drive time.

This will save you a bunch of time on your back cursing those nuts when the penetrating oil fails, and you begin to round off the existing nuts.

That's what I did when I installed the Borla. Best $20 I spent in July

TB

Sweet, you're right about making some parts runs, that'll definately happen. Look in my photopoint album, you can see the length difference and the pipe the shop installed. If you haven't looked, look under your car right behind the engine and you'll see where the flange is, it should have two bolts in it. Right after the flex pipe. The SVT exhaust has the same flange only its just about one foot back from your flange.

I think Limp0229Bizkit just got a piece of pipe and clamped it in. He used some exhaust repair tape for a couple leaks. That would probably be your best route for a quick install. i bet if you had the parts handy and didn't run into any problems the whole process would take about an hour. Of course I'm not sure about hangin the passenger side exhaust.

Edit:
That's a good idea Tony, those bolts are pretty tough. You might consider this David, and D Davis

you need to SHOCK the stud and the nut. Get a punch and a hammer put the punch on the stud and give it one good whack. then get a socket just big enough to fit over the stud but not engage the nut and give that one good wack. then oil it up and go have lunch when you caome back it should work. If the nut squeels add more oil.

It is an old wise mans trick and it usually works awesome. I did it to my SVT and one good SHOCK and a little AERO KROIL an hour before the job and the nuts practly came off with my fingers.

The shock helps to break up the rust that bonds between the nut and the stud.

When you reinstall cover the threads of the nut and the stud with chalk, baby powder or milk of magnesia, (per GE turbine engine maintainence manual) it will stand up to the temps, unlike anti sieze, and will help them from "rust welding" again.

oh, BTW use a 6 point socket, not 12 point or a open end wrench.

The 6 point socket gives the most bearing area and is least likely to round off the nut.

If you use a 12 point socket you will round off the nut.

If you use an open end wrench you will end up with skinned knuckles.

Thanks for the tips guys. I will have to keep those in mind when I do mine.

Well we are gonna be at a house where the new CEG will be located and he has wireless interet. Ill have the laptop outside and do updates as they happen. Gotta bring my digi with me

i just read this topic now, missed all the stuff being said about me. About connecting it, i did just use a piece of pipe and clamp it into both sides, after that i took muffler repair goop stuff(like cement when it dries) and put it all around the leak. While i was working on putting it together, my friend rigged a hanger for the second muffler out of some thick metal, i think it make have actually been a bike hanger...anyway about the tips, i've tried and there isnt enough back pressure to get any kind of resonated sound out of them, and when u put them on, they stick out behind the car pretty far, too much for my liking. When u come up with a tip solution let me know.
Later
Coming soon to a theater near you: KKM intake