This one's strictly for Contour owners (Mystique owners already have 'em). If, like me, you have to get into the back seat a lot, you'll notice that after dark you can't see Dick back there. Or Tom. Or Harry. Or much of anything else, for that matter. This is a ridiculously easy mod using original Mystique parts and takes about two hours. You need:
1. Rear (auxillary) dome light from any Mystique
2. Wiring pigtail from above part
3. 6 to 8 feet of 18- to 20-guage wire (aftermarket speaker wire works great) x 3
4. Cutting from the headliner of a Mystique (OPTION: if you're lucky and find a Mystique headliner matching your interior, use it instead) for a template
5. Small-guage butt-end connectors (red)
6. Closed-end connectors
7. Tools: #2 slotted screwdrivers (you'll need two... I'll explain later); thin bladed screwdriver; fresh razor blade; wiring multi-tool for cutting, stripping and crimping
Step 1: start by removing the interior light relay (R12) from the inside fuse box. Remove the visors, visor end catches, grab handles (alias "chicken handles"), the main dome light and, if you have a moonroof, the moonroof motor cover. Pull loose the weatherstripping from around all four doors (you don't have to remove them completely). On moonroof models (like mine), remove the border molding. Remove the A- and B-pillar trim (be careful with the A-pillars: the clips will break with just a stray thought). Loosen the C-pillar trim (they don't need to come out). Dislodge the headliner from the roof (if you're using an intact Mystique headliner, pull the old one out).
Step 2: take the pigtail and three 6 to 8 feet lengths of wire and strip insulation off each end. Crimp each wire length to the end of each wire on the pigtail (note: mark each extension wire to remind you where it goes up front; the hot lead is orange/blue, the ground is black, and the ground for the continuous on position is black/blue) using the butt-end connectors.
Step 3: Bundle the wires together, then snake them into position under the roof (on moonroof models, route above the drain tubes). There is a rectangular opening in the back, with a round hole to the left; the pigtail connectors go IN the round hole and OUT the rectangle. Leave 3 inches dangling.
Step 4: Working one at a time, cut the three wires to the main dome light, leaving enough room to splice. Be sure to match the wires from the back with those up front. OPTION (and I wish I'd thought of it sooner): salvage the pigtail from a main light, cut the connector ends off your own pigtail, and give yourself more room to work with. Wire the cut ends with the extension wires and crimp with closed-end connectors. (DO NOT USE SCOTCH-LOKS! They just won't work here.) Tape all splices up, plug the relay in, and check for power.
Step 5: Take the template (if you're using one) and place it over the backside of the headliner. Take the two #2 slotted screwdrivers and stick them through the holes for the headliner rear retainer pins, securing AND aligning the template. With the razor, cut into the headliner, using the template as a guide. Remove the template and trim the newly-cut opening. Fit the modified headliner back into position and adjust as necessary. If all goes well, then installation is reverse.
Step 6: Enjoy your increase in lighting!
This very windy description spells out what I did Friday afternoon, including the hard knocks. I MEAN it about the Scotch-Loks; guess how I found out? :p
