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Joined: Aug 2001
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Alright, I have searched the posts to no avail, but I just recently bought some Rage 5.0's 17" and got some Nitto 215/45/ZR 17s to go with them from discount tires. Now I got them balanced and road forced (which costed extra) but I had a reputable shop put them on and made sure that the retaining clips on the lugs were removed, or at least for most of the wheels, didn't get to see all of them (shop did it for me), but I still have the shimmy/shake at 60 mph+ and I don't know what it is. Should I get them balanced again (and have discount tire paid for it...can I do that). I am out of ideas. Anything. Appreciate any assistance.
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Joined: May 2001
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Are you sure the wheels were balanced from Discount tire? I haven't dealt with them before but they might have just sold you the service and not done it. You also could be "missing" the hub centric (sp) spacers on the wheels. At least that would be my guess. Most shops will only balance the tires at 55mph and then do a shotty job of it. I would have them balanced again after checking the other stuff.
Married the gal of my dreams 04.27.02  2K SVT Black/Midnight Blue #294 of 2150 DOB 10.29.99 kbucy@fbr.com ktigerj on aim A *few* Mods Best Time 14.942 at 93.98mph Car is now for sale - 14000
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Joined: Jul 2000
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are the wheels hub centric or lug centric? I have seen many vibration problems with lug centric wheels
Luke
Luke Pavlick Sales Representative ASE Certified Master Tech For more info on any post or to place an order please call 800-428-8355 ext. 362 for on-line orders mention my name in the previous contact field for prompt personal service. www.tirerack.com I want to die peacefully in my sleep Like my Grandfather Not screaming and frightened like the passengers in his car !!!
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Joined: May 2000
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Luke, what are the differences between hub centric and lug centric? How do you know which a wheel will be when ordering? Or does this matter on the design of the hub on the car?
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Joined: Aug 2000
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Are they your first set of replacement rims? if so, did you remove the very thin stock spacer found on some Lugs when stock wheels come off. Also, could need an alighnmnet..........
my .02
Mark
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Originally posted by Eric L:
Luke, what are the differences between hub centric and lug centric? How do you know which a wheel will be when ordering? Or does this matter on the design of the hub on the car? Eric, lug-centric = wheel is centered on the hub using lugs, thus there is more force/pressure on the studs and lugs hub-centric = wheel is centered by the hub, thus usually more of a 'custom' wheel = more expensive. Most lug-centric wheels come w/ centering rings (plastic) that go on your hub before you put the wheel on, but dunno how good they are in actually helping to center the wheel. (band-aid fix I guess) If you have lug-centric wheels, make sure you torque down the lugs while the wheel is still in the air, or just barely touching the ground. John
'98 SVT - modded
-15.01@91.8
'95 Suzuki GS500E
-faster than the above
---wanting a Speed Triple or Superhawk badly
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Well, they are lug centric, they came with the plastic centering rings. I jacked the car up today, and took the rims off, made sure the centering rings were secure and actually there Got to check everything. Double checked that the retaining clips were indeed removed, and they were. Put the wheels back on, torqued them down in the air to 100, and made sure the air pressure was at 32 psi. And the shake has gone down a considerable amout, still there but this time, only very prominent at around 75+. The funny thing is, it comes and goes, starts for a few minutes, goes off for a few minutes, and over and over again. But again, not close to what it was. Should I be torquing them down less/more. More or less air pressure. Or get them balanced again. Any ideas. Thanks.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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I had hte same problem with my 96 se with stock wheels. turns out to be bad tie rods - it would shake only when going on a small hill bump on the highway....when the force brought the car to it's lowest - it would shake. also - if you move your steering wheel back and forth - you make hear a cluncking noise.... just another thought....
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Joined: Jan 2002
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Well 100 lb/ft of TQ is to much, it shouldn't be over 70 lb/ft, atleast that's what I TQ mine too. according to a chart I have at work, they should be TQ'ed between 65 and 75 lb/ft I believe, I'll have to double check it.
~*TJ*~ 97 GL Sport Zetec
~*RIP*~Connie~*1/21/02*
~*Mods*~ E0 SVT Rims~205/55R16 Goodyear American Eagles~
~*Mods to come*~ H&R springs~Konis~Coilovers~17x7 Millie Miglia Avia~215/45R17 S-03's~SVT body kit~98+ OE Spoiler~CAI~Brullen Cat-Back~Turbo (or 2):)~
More to come
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Is there any aftermarket wheel (i.e., non OEM) that is hubcentric? (oh, and doesn't weigh a ton?
Luke?
"Function before fashion."
'96 Contour SE
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