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Patrick Offline OP
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I was driving along a winding backroad last week when I notice a new vibration coming from the right front wheel only during left hand sweepers. I pulled over, got the torque wrench out, and found that one lug was really loose. So I tightened and tightened but it didn't get any tighter. So I inspected the lug nut and found that part of the stud had snapped off inside the lug! That freaked me out a bit, but I figured that I could limp home on the other 3. I checked those before starting out and found that another one had snapped too! Thank God that there was a tire shop just down the road because the car was basically undriveable. They replaced a 4 studs on that side but I still don't know what caused it.

I read the past posts about hub-centric vs. lug-centric and have to call Panther about my wheels. I had them torqued to 95 ft/lbs but have since backed off to 75. The broken ends had a rainbow finish on them like they were exposed to heat and the break was clean, no jagged edges at all. Anyone have any ideas? I find the prospect of a wheel coming off at highway speeds particularly unsettling. smile


'98 SVT
KKM / TH fix / Mobil 1 / Synth tranny cocktail / JVC LX-30 HU / 10" JL sub / Alpine V12 amp / Panther 199 wheels / Kuhmo Ecsta 215/45/17 / Bosch +4 / Ford Motorsport wires
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95 ft/lb's damn...I thought the manual says 64. Thats the Chiltons or Haynes...I use around there maybe 70!


98 E0 with 110,000 and counting...
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Patrick Offline OP
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Yeah, I thought more = better. I "might" have been a little too aggressive.


'98 SVT
KKM / TH fix / Mobil 1 / Synth tranny cocktail / JVC LX-30 HU / 10" JL sub / Alpine V12 amp / Panther 199 wheels / Kuhmo Ecsta 215/45/17 / Bosch +4 / Ford Motorsport wires
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aftermarket wheels should be torqued more than a stock wheel which is hub centric. I torque my wheels at 95 ft lbs as reccomended by the lug nut manufacturer and axis wheels.

You should check he lugs periodically though to see if they try to loosen up.


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