I recently bled/flushed my brakes... it took a few hours, but only because I had no assistant to pump the pedal. Also I apparently got air in it when almost done and had to do part of it over. And I did it in two steps: flush as well as I could, then drive around and brake hard to pump out any fluid inside the ABS system, then bleed some more. This was to eliminate any traces of the old lower-temperature fluid. I used Valvoline SynPower, which is almost as clear as water and advertises a boiling temperature of 502 degrees.
My hints:
Don't unscrew the front bleeders more than the minimum amount, the screws leak too much when opened even one full turn. The back ones (if you have drums) are better.
Don't buy a commercial "brake bleeding kit". I got one and ended up throwing it away, except for the main length of clear hose, within ten minutes.
The best hose to use is clear plastic for the main length, so you can see the color and any bubbles, but the part that goes over the screw works much better if you use rubber vacuum hose. So I used about five inches of rubber with the clear plastic fitted onto it. (This especially helped since the hose that came with the bogus kit was rather too short.) The fluid may damage the rubber eventually, I suppose, but it works well enough to use.
Finding a place to properly dispose of used brake fluid at may be difficult... but do find one, don't pour it in the gutter.
96 GL Zetec ATX, white with pinstripe, nickname "
Sam Smooth "
mods so far: CTA intake with homemade heat shield, KVR drilled front rotors & carbon pads w/ 500° fluid
planned mods: exhaust (want to keep it quiet), e-ram (awaiting installation), diablo chip
involuntary mods: compression increased after head gasket failure