Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#249251 08/15/01 05:43 PM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 99
C
CAM2 Offline OP
Member
OP Offline
Member
C
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 99
My brakes are starting to go. There's a lot of info to wade through, and it's hard to separate fact from fiction. Here's my deal:

'98 SVT, not auto-x'ed, dragged only to see how my mods help, driven daily-year 'round-in Ohio, so she sees snow. When I redo brakes, I want to go the best route possible. What do any of you recommend? A BAT kit or other brands of rotors/pads? It seems to me stainless hoses are a good route too. I don't think, for how she's driven, my gal needs Wilwood calipers or anything like that, but . . . I guess that's why I'm asking. confused


callmecam2@hotmail.com
"You might be a king, or a little street sweeper ... but sooner or later, you dance with the Reaper! Yeah, get down with my bad self."
#249252 08/15/01 10:17 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 107
G
Member
Offline
Member
G
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 107
A nice pair of new rotors and pads will always be a good way to go.. You can upgrade the rotors to say either cross drilled or slotted. They will last alot longer. They will cost around $100 a rotor.. Pad wise you can go with some semi metalic ones.. up to you from which company.. Axis, Bendix and a host of others have really good pads. Braided hoses is a good upgrade as well. Especailly if you have bad weather condotions. The calipers really don't need to be upgraded. Hope that kind of helps out..


GroundZero74@aol.com
96 Zetec Contour
Custom paint job, shaved door handles, touring wing, 17" white Team Dynamics Monza rims on 225/45 Nitto's, Power Stop cross drilled rotors w/ Axis pads, stainless steel braided brake lines, Eibach/Koni suspension, strut tower brace,Superchip, CTA intake, Nology wires, Nology plugs, Accel coil pack, Optima battery, NOS, high flow cat, stainless cat back w/ weapon r exhaust, Corbeau racing seats,simpson 5 point racing harness, paint highlighted interior, racing pedals, diamond plate floor mats, white face gauges, headlight strobes, under car neon kit, Pilot fog lights, PIAA driving lights,custom side markers, 20% tint all around, Fuba antenna, Kenwood mask headunit, Kenwood PS series amp, 12" Kicker Solo Baric, infinity kappas in the doors, Street Wires wiring.
#249253 08/16/01 07:23 AM
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,225
K
Member
Offline
Member
K
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,225
I would avoid cross-drilled rotors because they have a tendency to warp and crack quicker than our stock rotors. Do a search and you should find some other people on here that can substantiate this claim.


Ryan

Latest Mod: Mirko Splitter
#249254 08/16/01 12:05 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,202
K
KJ Offline
Member
Offline
Member
K
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,202
Krafty is right (of course). Most use stock rotors and drill them. Main reasons they crack is that people don't "season" them correctly or heat them up before stomping on the brakes. There are at least a couple of things to think about when you get "upgraded" brakes.

I would say if you already have the 17's get the Baer kit. I've loved mine and it's saved my butt a couple of times too . wink Getting braided lines and pads on the stock rotors isn't a bad idea at all, if you are going to use it for daily use. One of the biggest reason I did the Baer's was really stupid, I hated the brake dust build up on the wheels. Oh well, glad I did it now.


Married the gal of my dreams 04.27.02 smile
2K SVT Black/Midnight Blue
#294 of 2150
DOB 10.29.99
kbucy@fbr.com
ktigerj on aim
A *few* Mods
Best Time 14.942 at 93.98mph
Car is now for sale - 14000
#249255 08/16/01 12:42 PM
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 3,636
J
Member
Offline
Member
J
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 3,636
Quote:
Originally posted by Krafty:
I would avoid cross-drilled rotors because they have a tendency to warp and crack quicker than our stock rotors. Do a search and you should find some other people on here that can substantiate this claim.



I've got about 25K on the KVR/Brembo Cross Drilled combo installed on my Buick.

I had the wheels off last week and the only cracks were in the rubber brake hoses I was replacing. No warping either, at least none I can feel in the pedal.

I may have another 5-10K in the pads. But a year and 25K miles of hauling down that two ton monster has not cracked my rotors yet.

At least not visibly.

I'll probably throw another set of pads in September or October before winter comes and I don't want to work on the car anymore.

TB


Tony Boner
Personal: 98cdw27@charter.net Work: tony.boner@sun.com
Saving the computer world from WinBloze as Unix/Solaris/Java Guru http://www.sun.com
1998 Contour SVT Pre-E1 618/6535 Born On Date: 4/30/1997
Now with Aussie Bar induced mild oversteer.

Moderated by  Andy W._dup1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5