Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes Gas slotting vs. cross-drilling...ALSO Brembo/Eurorotors

kvr rotors and pads all 4 corners $500 and change with tax shipped and delivered ....also after tax being that that price is canadian $$$$$$$$$ recent price from kvr directly

Cross drilling and slotting does practically nothing on a street driven car. Even if you're open tracking your car, don't bother. Your best bet would be to get some OEM Ford rotors and have them cryo treated. I know of people that have done the cryo/oem combo and have successfully open tracked their cars several times and driven their car 50k miles without warping.

What Matt posted! I've run my SVT twice at Buttonwillow and once at Willow Springs with the stock rotors and have not warped them. I'm using Porterfield R4S pads and Motul 600 fluid and the brakes work very well.

Cross drilling is purely a cosmetic thing and actually makes your brakes less effective. Slotting does have some performance value but ONLY in racing situations.

FYI... On my racing 240Z I have my solid rotors cryo treated to improve their longevity. Cryo treating is good at improving the wear resistance of rotors, but it won't have any effect on warping.

FYI2... Most rotors get warped because of driving technique. It sounds funny, but if you warp your rotors on a race track, you're using your brakes too much!

Go with Crossdrill but see if you can coat them with some stuff that keeps them from rusting.

The one I have on now r rusting really bad after it rains or a car wash.. :rolleyes:

OT: What's up with rusty brakes? If the braking surface is rusty, just drive around the block and hit the brakes once or twice.

I've see the hub portion of the rotor rust a bit on some cars, but never enought to mess anything up or look bad.

- B

I've painted the hub portion black, along with my calipers.

Looks MUCH MUCH MUCH better. No more rust. Highly recommend it. I get sick every time I see rusted rear rotors on a SVT.

John

There is no treatment to keep the friction face of the rotor from rusting. The Dacramat treatment or Cad Plating will keep the rest of the rotor from rusting, at least for a while, but it will very soon wear off the friction face and allow it to rust in wet or humid weather of after washing the car. This light coating of rust will be wiped off with the first application of the brakes.

Jim Johnson
98 SVT

You say you have problems with warping rotors? I have a solution for you. Take your car to Ford and have them turn the rotors on the car. They have a special tool for this, and it will cost you about $99 US per axle. The tool compensates for any type of misalignment between the pad/caliper/bracket/spindle. I had a serious warping problem on my 95 Windstar. The front brakes warped at 4000 miles after replacing the pads/rotors with new ones. I took it in and had the on-car turning done, and now they have been fine for the last 12,000 miles. It's expensive, but well worth the cost.

I have heard reports from some of the guys in
the Audi crowd that wet braking problems went
away with a switch to drilled front rotors. I
also have a hard time believing Porsche keeps
outfitting a car as purposed as the 911 Turbo
with merely "aesthetic" brake rotors, despite
the claims that Baer makes.

I do, however, believe that outgassing is not
a concern on the street -- or rather, if this
is a concern, you're insane and need to SLOW
DOWN before someone gets killed.

T.

x-drilling is mostly for asthetic reasons BUT it DEFINITELY helps in wet weather. Also, I disagree about x-drilling reducing braking efficiency. Think about the crotch rocket motorcycles and their rotors. The Japanese know engineering - they would quit drilling them if it reduced the braking ability.

$125 for rotors is too much. Also, I think most of the shuddering problems you guys have is the result of not torqueing the wheels to spec. I had some problems with shuddering soon after I did a brake upgrade with GASP! Autospeciality POWERSTOP (ooohhh bad bad bad) and then I torqued my wheels and much much better now. I avoid accidents like crazy - much better than stock.
And to whomever said they wouldn't buy EBC greenstuffs - IMO they are the best brakes on the market for a street machine. I am planning to put them on my 84 SVO.