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#248547 04/26/01 10:31 PM
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SteveD Offline OP
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Anyone know what's involved with replacing the caliper bushings on front of a 95 GL Duratec? I'll be replacing rotors and pads and am considering slide pins and bushings.
-How are they attached?..pressed in, or screwed in?
-Can this be done without removing the caliper from the brake line?
Anyone tried it?

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Steve

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I don't know...but I'll find out soon. I have a similar problem to what BAT describes in their catalog. Sudder under light braking from high speeds. I ordered the bushings yesterday and will install them next week. I'll let you know how hard it is....and maybe, (gasp!) write a FAQ.

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Thanks, schatzd. I saw them in the BAT catalog, too. Not sure I need them, but figured if it was easy to do, it might be a good idea since I'm at 70k miles now.

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If I'm thinking of the same slide pins you are they screw in from the BACK of the rotor. I think it was a torx of some kind...not sure though. Very easy to take out. Bushings shouldn't be too hard either.

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I replaced the bushings when I did the BAT brake kit 'C'. You can definitely do the bushings without removing the caliper from the brakeline, but it would be easier if you did. The bushings will push out with a screwdriver, pushing fairly hard.

-Lance

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Thanks, Lance,
I think I'll order the bushings and pins when I place the order for the pads/rotors and give them a try.

-steve

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I dunno what your symptoms are, but if you want to keep your brakes working well and avoid binding/warped rotors, I recomend the following @ every brake pad change:

Inspect caliper bushings. If without defects/noticable wear, run over wire wheel or use wire brush to get all crap off them.

Clean out rubber bushing guides on caliper with rag/brake cleaner. Re-apply brake lubricant, i.e. silicone brake lube/paste onto bushing and inside of bushing guides.

Andrew

PS: IIRC, it's a T45 that you need to do the caliper bushing pins. Good luck!


Andrew
99 SVT

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