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WOW. 
Originally posted by 99SESPORT:
First off, if somebody is grabbing your nuts, your gonna do everything you can to get him off...
And sitting there telling him politely
"Please let go of my nuts, sir?"
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,732
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Come on, Mike, you gotta do better than "WOW"  No more engine smashing back and forth?
- Pete - 00 SVT SF/MB - 1522/2150 - DOB 1/12/00
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92% says your group-NOT HOT
85% says your either wrong or BLIND
Blackhawk Down did NOT suck
you know who you are.....
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Joined: Jun 2001
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Do you have the horizontal style (like me)? Did you do it yourself? Where did you get them? Did it fix the clunk that you have been complaining about? Mine get ordered tomorrow and I'm hoping to chase my engine clunk away. C'mon, unless you want me to whip em out  you gotta give more info than WOW!
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ALright next meet I'm gonna bring em so we can get pics of em up on the board as a warning to others.
The front bushings on both sides were ripped!
PA3LSVT - Yep I have the horizontal style...the way the car pulls feels so different now, you actually feel connected to the front wheels! Theres still the usual little bit of wiggle when tapping the gas but tip in is much easier than before and on downshifting its amazingly better. Theres still a tiny clunk if I really hit the gas hard and quick but I can assume its normal because I REALLY have to nail it to do it. Chirping the wheels into second is a snap I can do it barely trying now and overall acceleration and drivability is improved greatly.
As for installation, you WILL need a friend(or two)if you do it the way I did by keeping the axles in.
Heres what I did.(Per side)
1. Front Wheels off(duh!)
2. Remove torx screw and nut from balljoint and pry off.
3. Remove the rear roll resistor through bolt.
(Keep the engine supported with a jack!)
4. Remove the Left/Right front subframe bolt and Rear left/right subframe bolt(I did one side at a time reinstalling the 2 bolts before moving to the next side)
5. Zip off the 4 nuts on the arms Two are 19mm nuts and youll need a 16mm wrench to hold the bolts while you zip them off. The other two are I believe 15mm bolts and a 12 mm wrench.
6. NOW THE HARD PART. Removing some of these bolts takes a lot of muscle. Pry the subframe down with a large prybar while someone else taps the bolts out through the topm, 2 or 3 will hit the transmission and driveaxle without prying down on the frame so theres our reason for the prybar and removing the frame bolts. The drivers side bolts will all come out fine. However the passenger side driveaxle is directly in the way of one bolt on the arm.(Pry down on the frame and maneuver the bolt as far out as you can until it clears the bushing mount and you can slide the arm out)
7.The longest part(for me anyway) was lining up the arm so that the bolts come down through the bushing mounts correctly. Get a friend to prydown on the frame while you tap the arm into place so the bolts will fall through. Then just tighten em up, push in the ball joint. Tighten everything up(self explanatory) and don't forget to retorque your frame bolts!
Like I said this how you do it WITHOUT removing the axles which I think requires a special tool.
All the grunting and cussing was so worth it though I'm very happy with my SVT(finally)!
Originally posted by 99SESPORT:
First off, if somebody is grabbing your nuts, your gonna do everything you can to get him off...
And sitting there telling him politely
"Please let go of my nuts, sir?"
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 704
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Oh yea took about 3 hours to do! But now that I know how I could probably get em on in about an hour and half!
Originally posted by 99SESPORT:
First off, if somebody is grabbing your nuts, your gonna do everything you can to get him off...
And sitting there telling him politely
"Please let go of my nuts, sir?"
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,419
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Posts: 3,419 |
Don't forget to get an alignment now. Thanks for the how to. 
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I put it on the rack...it didn't change anything one bit! Weird huh??
Originally posted by 99SESPORT:
First off, if somebody is grabbing your nuts, your gonna do everything you can to get him off...
And sitting there telling him politely
"Please let go of my nuts, sir?"
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,419
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,419 |
Wierd. I know mine will need adjustment b/c my ball joints are shot as well as the control arm bushings.
You know, Haynes makes the job sound so easy compared to your write up. At least I'm prepared for the fight. I may just cut the bolts that won't come out and use new ones inserted from below (with Loctite for safety).
BTW, what do you mean by "zip off the nuts"?
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 704
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 704 |
Originally posted by 99SESPORT:
First off, if somebody is grabbing your nuts, your gonna do everything you can to get him off...
And sitting there telling him politely
"Please let go of my nuts, sir?"
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,419
Member
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Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,419 |
The only tool using air when I do them is going to be me. WD-40 and breaker bars are my friends.
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