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Hey all ... does this forum replace the DC-CEG list on YahooGroups ? I tried posting to it last night, and a message came back saying the group did not exist or something. Anyway, I already posted this to another area on the CEG Forums, but one of the guys said to post to the Capitol area group to perhaps get ideas on reputable shops in the area to maybe get a better price, get 2md/3rd opinions, etc.

Sooooo, here I am, joining a "blown engine" thread. Recently, I noticed noise in the engine bay that didn't sound good, and it only got worse. I was driving a few days ago on the freeway to get to a service station, and suddenly the noise became terrible. I happened to be approaching an exit, which I took and immediately coasted to a stop. As I did so, the engine died. I was able to restart it almost immediately, but it only ran a few seconds.
I had it towed to the dealer (actually a flat bed truck with winch). My precious SVT is now dead in the shop (local Ford dealer) ... I've been told the engine has gone to lunch, permanently. They don't know precisely what is wrong -- they said it could be a broken connecting rod -- but I was told it isn't worth spending the money to determine the details of what happened, and that a new engine is needed. A factory remanufactured engine, plus labor, will cost several $K. I would hate to spend several $K replacing the engine, when it might be something that could be repaired/replaced for $1K.

What would any of you do in my position ? We've got two babies . . . I've been laid off many months ago, with very lean fill-in income since . . . I'm starting college classes Monday and that cost me a lot of $$$ . . . the engine replacement will cost me roughly 15% of my personal savings . . . I must have my own car for work, school etc. . . . well, you get the idea.

To top it off, this SVT is in beautiful condition in every way aside from the blown engine. I cannot even dream of parting it out or selling it for street value as-is. And I owe roughly $10K or $11K on the loan.

What would you do ? I do technically have money to buy the new engine/installation. Does it make sense to go for it ? Are there other less costly avenues to have this done ? I understand that I cannot legally have an engine from any other year installed (my SVT is a 98). I even looked at eBay for an engine, or SVT being sold as is for parts, but .... nothing.
By the way, my car is a black '98 Contour SVT. I have never been racing with it, I baby it a lot, and have it maintained religiously (not sure I could produce all records needed for a freebie engine replacement).
Except for the blown engine or whatever, everything is in beautiful condition, including an almost new set of 245/50-16 Michelins (almost $1,000), midnight blue leather interior, tinted windows ... you can see why it would kill me to even think of parting it out or something.

I can see from the posts that replacing an engine is somewhat routine for a few people out there, but it is far from a routine thing for me. I am obviously too upset to even think about this rationally. Again, what would you do in my shoes ? Anyway, thanks again for "listening", and thanks to anyone with constructive advice and/or some silver lining to a very dark cloud . . . sigh


Dave Gates
a California native in Northern VA
1998.5 Black Contour SVT
Contour SE rear spoiler
Window tint (40%)
Michelin Z 245/50-16s
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Honestly, I'd say grab a new or remanufactured 3.0L and dump it in there. From what I understand, if you don't do all the extra goodies to make it scream it should run you less, as they are more common than an SVT block etc.

Maybe somebody on the "big board" could offer more $ qoutes and or how-tos pitfalls etc.

Ed

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You may want to contact Terry Haines in MI. His 3.0 conversions are very reasonable and a lot of future potential if you plan on modding.


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Ya, call Terry Haines on the 3L! My car is going up there in March to have many things done, but no 3L... :rolleyes: If I lost my engine my car would definitly go up there to have the 3L put in though, he is a professional and does professional work. If you need his number PM me and I'll give it out.


98 E0 Silver SVT
KKM - Bassani - MSDS - BAT - ES - Unorthodox - HID - Dyna-batt - Koni - Ground Control - 17" MAS Italy Rodger - Quaife - Fidanza

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How did this happen? Hard cornering, over rev, low oil level, oil pressure warning light, etc??

If you are under 100K miles with oil level & maintanence up to spec & you have no major engine mods, I think you should seriously go head to head with Ford/SVT about picking up some or all the cost of the new motor. It just should not happen and Ford knows this. I think some have been sucessful in this type of situation.


1999 Amazon Green SVT Contour (#554/2760)
Stock SVT Duratec V6 with:
Intake- K&N filter/75mm MAF meter
Exhaust- MSDS Y-pipe/Bassani catback
Durability-Ford "dual mode" damper, Mobil 1/K&N oil filter
179.2 FWHP at 6900 RPM
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2112, thanks for the tip. Terry Haines already posted to my situation on another thread in the "Problems" section of the CEG Forums.
======================
Dan, that sounds good -- but although I have been good about maintenance, wouldn't Ford demand detailed records of oil changes, etc. ? I lost a lot of papers and stuff to a basement flood. Would they still be open to it, seeing how the odo is only 42,000 mi. ?
Also ... no, I don't corner fiercely with my SVT, nor do I go racing. I have only revved it high a couple times, and the governor or whatever cuts out the engine before it gets into the redline area.
By the way, just what is the 3.0 conversion ? What engine is used, exactly ? How does it compare to the SVT Duratec ?
Thanks again, all ....


Dave Gates
a California native in Northern VA
1998.5 Black Contour SVT
Contour SE rear spoiler
Window tint (40%)
Michelin Z 245/50-16s
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Weather you have your service records or not, you should at least try and see if Ford/SVT will help you out.....something is better than nothing. Call 1-800-FORD SVT and see what they say.

The 3L conversion is basically a 3L bottom end(block) and the SVT top end(heads, etc.) Getting it to work properly is easier said than done, go with Terry if you chose this route.


-- Mike (Moe)Lester --
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Check out the bottom line of my sig to see the difference compared to the SVT motor (~160hp/135ft-lbs to the wheels stock). In order to get mine to work properly, I have had to install electronics to tune air/fuel ratio, I need to upgrade my fuel injectors, and I am experimenting with colder spark plugs to chase a knock problem I am experiencing. That is with the heads and intake from a 2.5 on a 2001 Taurus 3.0 block, using the stock engine controller.

Terry will most likely do it somewhat differently (if you should decide to go that way), and you'll drive away with a car needing no more work. He is the best - he was in powertrain development for Ford on the Duratech over in the UK. Downside: he is in western Michigan. Not too close to Virginia.

Oh, and you'll spend the same amount, if not more, to tear down your motor and repair it vs. a new one or a 3L conversion. The costs may end up being similar (reman 2.5 vs. Terry doing a 3.0 for you). Besides, do you want to drive around with an engine that has already blown once (if you repair your old 2.5)? Too strong a possibility of hidden damage in there.

I feel for you - I was in your situation this summer.


1998 Silver Frost SVT Contour born on...8/28/01[/i]
American Iron Shootout Radial Tire 2 Class Champion, Cecil County Dragway April 20, 2002
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By the way, a couple of side questions, slightly related -- has anyone on the planet come up with aftermarket cams for the Duratec SVT engine to bump up the HP ? And to anyone's knowledge, what is the highest HP achieved with this family of engines (including Zetec) and still have a reliable engine ?


Dave Gates
a California native in Northern VA
1998.5 Black Contour SVT
Contour SE rear spoiler
Window tint (40%)
Michelin Z 245/50-16s
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I think your only option is the Lincolin LS or Jag X-type cams and not even certain they will work. Realistic wheel HP on the 2.5 SVT motor N/A with all the goodies and still reliable is probably no more than 185hp, and that is being very optimistic.


98 EO #587
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