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Joined: Aug 2000
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I have an 00 CSVT with 11,600 and a 96 Mystique 5 sp., duratec with 44,000. I've just had the Mystique for several months. The previous owner ran Castrol Syntec. Its about time for an oil change so I went to my friendly Meijer store tonight and they had a great deal on gallon jugs of 5W50 Castrol Syntec. I've always used 5w30 on the SVT (conventional valvoline). I've never heard of anyone using 5w50 on anything. I always thought the bottom number on the oil was what mattered. Anyone have any opinions on 5w50 Castrol synthetic?
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Joined: Sep 2000
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FWIW I've used the 5w-50 from Castrol and liked it. Problem is I think they're going to discontinue it due to the heavy weight when hot. Most of the newer engines are now so close in tolerances which allow smaller, lighter, higher horsepower engines to be built that they need a lower viscosity oil. Hence the reason Ford/Mazda have gone to a 5w-20 for nearly all of their newer "cars". Like my Tribute. I use Amsoil 0w-30 and before that it was the Mobil 1 0w-30. I LOVE Amsoil and am hooked on it for life. The cost is more expensive but the piece of mind is so worth it.
HTH John
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Joined: May 2000
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John, I'm not so sure on the tolerance thing you mention, since Ford approves the use of 5W20 in engines dating back to 91 or 92. IIRC, the 91 or 92 5.0L V8 is on the list of approved applications for the 5W20 oil. I suspect that oil is simply an attempt to get better fuel economy. I am seriously considering 5W40 from Mobil 1 Delvac (typically used in truck, but does carry an SJ rating meaning it is API certified for Spark ignition (S=Spark such as gasoline and C=compression ignition.) See the Delvac 1 info here: http://www.mobil.com/mobil_lubes/onhighway/products_services/delvac1/specs_content.html I do have some Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic, I plan to use in the Buick this winter. I picked up two gallons of this synthetic for about $12.18/gallon at the local Wal*Mart. The Rotella T, like the Delvac1 is a 5W40 synthetic, and meets the latest API gasoline engine standard, SL. http://www.rotella.com/rotella_t_synthetic.html But I'd have a hard time with 5W50 or the 20W50 stuff in most Contour applications. TB
Tony Boner Personal: 98cdw27@charter.net Work: tony.boner@sun.com Saving the computer world from WinBloze as Unix/Solaris/Java Guru http://www.sun.com 1998 Contour SVT Pre-E1 618/6535 Born On Date: 4/30/1997 Now with Aussie Bar induced mild oversteer.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Not to mention a hard time with Castrol "fake" synthetic anyway...
Stay far away IMO!
Solid "active" :rolleyes: particles, high ash content, turns acidic... No thank you!
On another note...
I think 5W40 Mobil 1 would be a good choice for hot summer driving.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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i use castrol 5w 30 syntec,and am very happy with the results..i think it is awesome,and would highly recommend it..i just got 2 /5 quart jugs of 5w 30 at wal mart for $15.88 each(cant beat that price)i noticed castrol syntec stays almost the color it originally went in,and is nice and thick when you pull out the dipstick(doesn't drip off)
98 silver frost svt no cats/magnaflows kkm true-rev white hvac ford blue calipers more to come!!
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Joined: Aug 2002
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In my vast experience, unless you are racing for a semi-living, synthetics are for the birds, and their manufacturers who are getting rich on them.
LMan//CrankyOldFangler 1999 SVT 5.0 conversion 12.02@100.1
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Well, I race to and from work, so I race for a semi-living. Therefore my Mobil-1 SuperSyn is justified.
Ride: 2000 T-red SE Beats: Kenwood 316S, Alpine MRF200, Orion XTR 6.2, Coustic 400SE Mods: CTA, Magnaflow exhaust, SVT Instrument cluster, Knuaberized doors, side markers, F***ed up painted headlights.
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Anyone notice LMan's sig? 5.0 in an SVT? I could swear that wouldn't fit!
Ride: 2000 T-red SE Beats: Kenwood 316S, Alpine MRF200, Orion XTR 6.2, Coustic 400SE Mods: CTA, Magnaflow exhaust, SVT Instrument cluster, Knuaberized doors, side markers, F***ed up painted headlights.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Originally posted by T-red2000se: Anyone notice LMan's sig? 5.0 in an SVT? I could swear that wouldn't fit! Another troll. They are stupid animals. If you Don't feed them, they go away...
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Originally posted by SCHU1: I always thought the bottom number on the oil was what mattered. The bottom number (e.g. 5W) is the "winter" weight of the oil. This is the viscosity of the oil at cold temperatures (or upon startup in colder weather). The top number is the "summer" weight of the oil. It is the viscosity of the oil when the engine gets to operating temperatures. Thus, both numbers are important, but one number might become more important depending on where you live and what season you are currently in (i.e., winter or summer).
1996 Contour SE Sedan 4D (Royal Blue) Duratec V6 2.5L 24-valve DOHC Automatic 75,000 miles No Mods (unless you call the DMD a mod) Replaced EGR valve (gunked up), EVR (EGR VR), PCV valve, and evaporative emissions hose (cracked).
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