Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Branches Eastern Canada GTA retailer for metal impeller waterpump?

Looks like a good move to replace the polymer impeller waterpump anytime after being informed. Everyone should realize that the v6 aluminum engine block and heads cannot take a waterpump failure and overtemp condition. Ford should have realized that in design stage. I will be changing mine ASAP (98 LX 163,000 km). I was one of the few people back in the 70's who owned the original Mazda rotary (R100) in which any temperature rise from normal destoyed the engine. Completely aluminum and with a hot and cold side to the engine (intake on left, exhaust on right)and ~60 large O-rings sealing the coolant passages between the engine plates even a small lack of coolant was death.
Aluminum warps easily, and corrodes quickly. Change the waterpump when you know it will break in future and change coolant absolutely every 2 years or sooner. Polymer in a rotating high heat part. What were they thinking. BTW plastic impeller is not more efficient if metal impeller is designed properly with high strength metal alloy.

Quick question for those who insatlled a new water pump themselves....how the hell do you get it out of there. It looks like you have to have child sized hands to get the hoses off that connect to the WP/WP housing.

There maybe slight difference between atx vs mtx, and SVT vs non-SVT in this area of car from what I've read (no 1st hand knowledge). In the case of my cars smaller hands would have helped but not a necessity (1/4" and 3/8" ratchets used).
I removed and replaced from below without disconnecting any hoses or removing battery, but tensioner was removed. After pump left housing I lowered it using coat hanger in bolt hole, pulley side towards rad and moved/wiggled/jiggled it past exhaust seam to pass side then out over frame member. Occassional steering by hand from underneath was required.
Much patience, swearing and blood the 1st time, a snap the 2nd. Taping the hose clamps (or perhaps fingerless gloves)to prevent cuts to back of hand advisable. Mirror to check appearance of cone and look for chunks of impeller in housing also required.

p.s. Above applies to replacing pump only. If complete housing is being replaced different procedure required; remove 3 long bolts (to block)and 2 big inboard hoses from pump housing, extract upwards gaining access to lower hose. This is also possibly quicker than above method for pump only replacement but introduces some hose damage/leakage risks. It would permit faster/easier re & re of 5 short bolts and a thorough inspection of cone/housing. I would recommend this method be given serious consideration.

i haven't heard of a white impeller going yet which is what i replaced my black one with,were all the blowed up impellers black,evan the first time i took mine out i took the whole waterpump out, the second time i just took the impeller side off much easier and quicker,yes its a bit tight but i got it with my big paws everything is a tight squeeze under that hood