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Why do I ask?
1. Curious to see just how many times a loose cone was involved in a WP failure.
2. Trying to decide if my buying the metal impeller waterpump and doing a pre-emptive replacement is worth the effort.
Joe, 98 GL sport (V6 MTX)
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I'm also curious to know if any 99 or later water pumps have failed. Seems to be it's usually 98.5 or earlier...
Kerry
99 SVT Contour Silver Frost, #365/2760
91 Isuzu Impulse XS Kammback, Handling By Lotus
Victoria, BC, Canada
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I know now that I'm posting this, it'll happen, but I bought her in May of '97 (or June) and I haven't had any problems with the water pump, though I just hit 43k. I haven't autox'ed, haven't driven her that hard, I ususally shift aggressively at 3500-4500 on everyday driving, RARELY take it past 5k since it's so loud and draws the attention of hormone-bound retards in coffee-can-tipped exhaust-civics aching for a beating. . .don't know if the "unagressive" driving, which is uncharacteristic of our forum, is what has helped thus far, but I too am debating whether to preemptively replace the water pump. . .it just seems like it's expensive to get a shop to install it. What do y'all think? Oh yeah, I baby her, get radiator flushes every 2 years, engine oil amsoil every 4 months, etc.
'98 Black SVT #651 of 6535
KKM Intake (Miks Heat Shield in Winters/Drop-in K&N Summers), SHO Y-Pipe, and Bassani Exhaust.
Eibach Pro-Kit, Koni Struts, and Enkei RS5's with BFG-KDWs (215/45-ZR17)
BAER 13" big brake kit+rear baer rotors all zinc washed, cross-drilled and slotted (Greenstuff binding rears)
Kenwood head unit with Infinity reference speakers+1 8" Bazooka Tube fed by two MTX Blue Thunder amps.
Hella Stage II HIDS from hids4less.com.
Recaro Sport Seats trimmed in supple black leather.
And Zymol wax to keep it squeaky clean.
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I replaced my water pump before it failed and I found a loose cone when I did. I think I may have been amoung the first to experience a loose cone.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
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Kerrychin,
I was wondering the same thing. I own a 2000 SVT and I have yet to hear of a 2000 SVT requiring a new water pump. The average mileage on a 2000 is about 30,000 miles so most 2000's probably do not have enough miles on them for a water pump to fail. Probably most of the 1999's have enough miles for a water pump to fail. I have heard that Ford upgraded the water pumps on the 2000 models but I am unsure of that. I really do not want to replace my water pump unless I that know for sure it needed to be replaced. I am really paying attention for the first 2000 water pump failure. I know some people have changed them out as preventative maintenance but I really do not want to do this unless I have to.
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Joined: May 2000
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So far...
4 - bad cones
8 - good cones
3 - don't know
Hmmm, hardly enough to draw a conclusion, but it looks like of failed waterpumps changed 1st hand, 33% had bad cones.
What can/might we draw from this?
More data required...but I'll be switching to my metal impeller anyway.
Joe, 98 GL sport (V6 MTX)
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Two cars, two replacements, two good cones, one vote.
98 Mystique LS v6 atx 110,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 125,000km
stock CD on LS, cass on LX
spoiler, tinted windows on LS only
4 wheel discs on LX only
All other available options on both
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Joined: May 2000
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TTT, for just one more day....
Joe, 98 GL sport (V6 MTX)
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Actually, this is a very good post. Terry Haines seems to be a BIG BACKER of the "Cone Fails and kills the impeller theory". From an engineering standpoint, how do we NOT KNOW that the impeller fails and then kills the cone? (Terry - your posts are great! This is not intended as a flame or attack. Lets just say I am playing devils advocate!  ) As stated before, my impeller let go before I found this site, and I didnt know about the cone thing. I did note, however, that the impeller appeared to have failed from stress cracks emanating from the metal collar at the hub of the cone. There were ZERO signs of impeller damage from hitting anything (such as a lose cone). To me, its a CTE thing (bookoo thermal cycles with differential thermal expansion of the black plastic impeller to the metal hub.) I took my failed impeller in to work and showed it to my fellow engineers, and it was unanamous that this was simply a crappy impeller design. Does this mean the ring detachment has not killed impellers? Heck no. Look at it this way. You've got 50% more votes saying the ring was attached. If you replace the impeller with a metal one, your probability of failure will DECREASE because you have eliminated the major rootcause failure mode. Now you can have some peace of mind knowing that you have decreased the probability of TRASHING your aluminum motor, getting stranded and embarrased on the interstate, and just plain pissed off by 67%. These pumps crap out right when you need them the most. Just replace the thing and move on.
Learning about cars from my Contour 95 LX - PLEASE do NOT BREATHE on my wiring harness! I can't afford a new one!
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