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#124444 11/06/00 08:47 PM
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Just remember that the dash kits at autodash.com are adhesive plastic pieces. They are applied with a double stick tape from 3M. They do not replace the parts on your dash. I ordered the standard carbon fiber kit for my 2000 SE and half of the parts didnt line up or fit.

#124445 11/07/00 02:08 AM
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check my pics at the repository...I have a silver frost interior. Looks very sweet. (JIC you wanted to see what it would look like).


'00 Solar Yellow MR2 Spyder
'98 SVT E0 (highly modified and 4Sale)

http://www.geocities.com/lustpoet/Contour_SVT_4Sale.html
#124446 11/07/00 02:20 AM
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how did you paint that like that????
did you take it off?


andy watson on my 'Beer Goggle' Post:
AureiusX: You needlessly made an ass of yourself
JenovaFire: it was a good idea at the time
AureiusX: LOL
AureiusX: so was she
#124447 11/07/00 01:29 PM
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Yep, the pieces have to come off to paint them.

1. Drop the big panel that covers the bottom of the dash (under the steering wheel). There are four bolts at the corners, each covered by circular trim. A small flathead screwdriver will pop the covers off, and a socket will remove the bolts. Forgot the size.

2. Remove the headlight switch panel. Two screws underneath. The rest is held on with clips, and pops out. Unscrew the headlight switch. Remove the power mirror switch by turning it.

3. Remove the HVAC panel. Four screws underneath, two of which are partly covered by the floor console, but still accessible with a little "encouragement." The rest is held in with clips, and pops out. Unscrew the dimmer switch.

4. Decide if you want to paint the vent/clock panel at this time. If not, proceed to #6. If so, proceed to #5.

5. Remove the vent/clock panel.

a) Reach behind the rear defroster switch and press out. The switch should pop out. Disconnect the plugs.

b) Using a small flathead screwdriver, pry out the clock (or "Contour" plate on '99/'00's). Pry from the lower right hand corner. Disconnect the plugs, if applicable.

c) There are 5 screws to remove. One is in the rear defroster area, two are in the instrument area (above steering wheel), and two are in the clock cavity. Remove all 5.

d) The panel should pull out.

6. Paint and let dry for at least 12 hours. Reinstall using the reverse procedure.

Let me know if anyone would like painting instructions.

#124448 11/08/00 12:44 AM
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hey viss1
i want painting instructions what brand and which color did you use?


------------------
1998 SVT #3498 of #6535
Black w/ Midnight Blue
Bullet Resonator
K&N Filter
20% Tint
Want to leave this bad boy stock because itll be a collector
Plus Im only 17 and i gotta pay insurance
I PAID FOR THIS CAR MYSELF NOT MY PARENTS

#124449 11/08/00 01:30 PM
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Testors has a good line of metal-simulating paint called the "Metallizer" series. I used the "Aluminum Plate" color. They also have Titanium, Steel, Bronze, etc. Lots of possibilities. Comes in a spray can or bottle. I used the spray bomb.

The cool thing is once you apply the paint, you can buff it using a mild polish, which makes it look very realistic. You can either leave it as is, which gives you an A4/3-series "dull aluminum" look. Or you can buff it, which results in a more polished/metallic look.

I used Ford's interior spray paint for the upper vent panel. Just need to get your interior paint code off the door sticker, and any dealer should have it.

So, once you have all the trim pieces off, just rough them up with a Scotch Brite pad or fine sandpaper. Wipe down with diluted alcohol or any mild solvent to remove oil/fingerprints.

The lower panels are easy - no masking. Just spray a moderate covering coat, wait an hour or two, and apply a final coat. Let dry for at least 12 hours.

For the upper (vent) panel, I decided to mask off the vents and coin holder so they would remain black. You could, of course, paint them as well, but it would be tough to get paint in all the nooks & crannies. I just used regular masking tape and some newspaper. Not hard, just time-consuming. Attention to detail pays off here.

After everything has dried, decide if you want to go with the polished look. If so, lightly apply a mild automotive polish. Lightly polish until the whole piece is uniformly shiny. Keep in mind that it's not too hard to polish through the paint, so be gentle.

Testors makes a clear coat, which I didn't use. Since these panels aren't a high-use area, I didn't think it was necessary.

I almost forgot about the shift boot trim ring. This was probably the toughest part - you have to remove the boot, sand the texture off the ring, and mask the boot (the ring is permanently attached to the boot). Very time-consuming.

I'd be curious to see how the Titanium looks.

#124450 11/09/00 05:00 AM
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#124451 11/09/00 12:47 PM
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Looks good. I almost forgot - I did mask off the horizontal bar between the radio and HVAC controls.

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