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#121768 07/30/02 01:02 PM
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I recieved the throttle body and I was wondering if there was anything i had to do to get this to wokr. i hooked it up and that top part wit the hole was hitting the UIM. Then i cut it off and it was fine. But then i went to connect the cable and it didnt fit. Ok so i open it up a little. now its cool. just one problem...the area where the cable runs leaves too much slack and the gas pedal is real loose and it wont go WOT. Was there some sort of modification that i was supposed to do.


jiako|98 svt silver|kkm true rev|18" Enkie RS5 wrapped w/falken GRB FK451 215/40|Mesh grill|
Sony headunit|Boston Acoutics (4)5X7|Memphis 1100 amp|(2) JL 12W3|KVR X drilled rotors|35% tint|2.25" True Duals w/ Magnaflows| kkm pedals|LSD|Fidnaza Flywheel|Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch|FMS wires|Konis/Eibach|ESP bushings and Mounts|75MM PRO FLOW|DMD|Aluminum shifter & E-brake handle|SAFC|HID's and a few more cc's 196.1 and 183.4
#121769 07/30/02 04:02 PM
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I think Anastazi's (Aussie) done this you might want to check with him.


Lee Cox
In life begins responsability...
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#121770 07/30/02 04:11 PM
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You need to make some spacers for pedal where the cable goes thought it. This will put you pedal back to it's original position. For my spacers I used neoprene hose and hose claps.


ED

"Some stuff has been done to to the car."
#121771 07/30/02 06:11 PM
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pull the cable through the pedal and put a 3/8 zip tie around the cable.


If it's true that we are here to help others, then what exactly are the others here for?
#121772 07/30/02 08:24 PM
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i like the part about how you just "hooked it up"
took me 2 days to get mine working, and it still wont open to WOT, and the spring isnt stiff enough to close it entirely all the time, leaving me with terrible throttle hang half the time

that said, my car is faster now, even not being able to go WOT
definately a MUST have mod.. if you can get it to work that is..


95 SE Champagne Mettalic
True Dual exhaust with X pipe and Redline mufflers
KKM Tru Rev intake
H&R Springs/KYB struts
Apex-i S-AFC
65mm Throttle Body
17" Ace Spades
4 Pt Racing Harness
Window Tint all around
New Engine @ 117k kilometers
G-Tech: 15.6 @ 91.5 MPH

"you officially kick ass"
quote from awed CEG'er after i chopped my hood and threw on scoops

RIP 98 SVT silverfrost *nov 4 2001*
#121773 07/30/02 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by S\V/T 'Kris':
i like the part about how you just "hooked it up"
took me 2 days to get mine working, and it still wont open to WOT, and the spring isnt stiff enough to close it entirely all the time, leaving me with terrible throttle hang half the time

that said, my car is faster now, even not being able to go WOT
definately a MUST have mod.. if you can get it to work that is..
Not doubting you.. Ok I am heh heh. Not being able to go WoT and not closing all the way as well aren't you having idle problems? I know with the Apexi you can adjust to compensate, but if its never reading WoT timing and fuel nightmare I would think. Get your car dyno'd with and without I'd be interested to see

Ryan laugh


98 V6 Lots-o-mods SOLD
88 Daytona Shelby Z TII (The beast)
87 Daytona Shelby Z TII (Holy 20 psi of boost batman!)
Mods- 3" Downpipe, Hi-Flow cat, 3" mandrel bent exhaust with Dynomax Ultra flow. Manual boost controller, TurboXS blowoff, 5th injector, large canister wastegate, Nitrous Express go-fast-be-happy kit, ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, upgraded motormounts, eibach springs, strut tower brace. Oh and 20 PSI to boot.. my oh my...
#121774 07/31/02 01:27 AM
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the butterfly is close to closed, and i just need to tap the throttle to get it to close all the way, but other than that, it idles around 1500-2000 rpm (annoying) so im gonna try and get a higher tension spring, oh and hte reason its not opeing to wot is cause there is a small plastic peice hitting the intake manifold, i just need to cut it off, also, its opening to about 90%-95% throttle, pretty close to wot, but not quite

i wont know how lean or rich im running till i hook up my air/fuel ratio meter (odb1 wont run the blue wire mod on my apexi) but to compensate for the TB i get it to run richer now, and its made a bug difference, im now making power ALL the way to the rev limiter, where as before i stopped making power at 5900-6000 rpm

just need to play with it some more i guess


95 SE Champagne Mettalic
True Dual exhaust with X pipe and Redline mufflers
KKM Tru Rev intake
H&R Springs/KYB struts
Apex-i S-AFC
65mm Throttle Body
17" Ace Spades
4 Pt Racing Harness
Window Tint all around
New Engine @ 117k kilometers
G-Tech: 15.6 @ 91.5 MPH

"you officially kick ass"
quote from awed CEG'er after i chopped my hood and threw on scoops

RIP 98 SVT silverfrost *nov 4 2001*
#121775 07/31/02 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by S\V/T 'Kris':
the butterfly is close to closed, and i just need to tap the throttle to get it to close all the way, but other than that, it idles around 1500-2000 rpm (annoying) so im gonna try and get a higher tension spring, oh and hte reason its not opeing to wot is cause there is a small plastic peice hitting the intake manifold, i just need to cut it off, also, its opening to about 90%-95% throttle, pretty close to wot, but not quite

i wont know how lean or rich im running till i hook up my air/fuel ratio meter (odb1 wont run the blue wire mod on my apexi) but to compensate for the TB i get it to run richer now, and its made a bug difference, im now making power ALL the way to the rev limiter, where as before i stopped making power at 5900-6000 rpm

just need to play with it some more i guess
Sounds like you took it ups and didn't rebuild it right. And you plate isn't sitting flsuh in the closed position or you didn't add enough tension to the spring when reassembling it.
You can make the GT Mustang TB as tight as you want by adding a few turns to the throttle cam before you reinsert the butterfly plate.

As for adjusting the slack in the cable, you can space the end of the cable away from the pedal, inside the cabin by using zip ties as spacers. Or a more professional fix; cut of the lead stopper ont eh stock cable, at the TB, and use a brass adjustable cable stopper (available from the smaller non-Home Depot style hardware stores - usually in the same section as the lawnmowers or the "odds 'n' ends" aisle where you find nuts, bolts, sprinmg grommet etc. and all that sort of stuff in the plastic drawers). Remeber that the cable end on the Mustang TB is actually smaller than the Contour, so buy the right diameter stopper - take the TB into the store with you to make sure you have the right one. Once you have everything assembled and adjusted, cut off the excess throttle cable sticking through your new cable stop.


Regards,
Anastazi
Father of the Aussie Bar
anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com

"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music."
-----------------------------------

2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150
8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's.
Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502
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#121776 07/31/02 10:51 PM
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thanks for the info stazi!!!


95 SE Champagne Mettalic
True Dual exhaust with X pipe and Redline mufflers
KKM Tru Rev intake
H&R Springs/KYB struts
Apex-i S-AFC
65mm Throttle Body
17" Ace Spades
4 Pt Racing Harness
Window Tint all around
New Engine @ 117k kilometers
G-Tech: 15.6 @ 91.5 MPH

"you officially kick ass"
quote from awed CEG'er after i chopped my hood and threw on scoops

RIP 98 SVT silverfrost *nov 4 2001*

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