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Hey, My CEL just came on and I knew I should have gotten a new MAF a while ago because the car was shutting off on left turns. Anyway, I have an OBX racing filter so do you think I should just clean it? If not, I plan on getting a bigger MAF since it probably needs to be changed. What do you guys recommend that would work on my car (96 duratec) without the need of tricking the computer. Also, would you recommend getting a bigger TB as well...if so what kind and how difficult is the TB job to do? Thanks alot
96 Contour LX V6 red ext. with tan leather int. All options except ABS(who needs brakes anyway) Bosh+4 plugs and 9mm Ford Racing wires OBX racing intake Aerospeed DTM style muffler with 2.25 custom catback piping - no res BAT struts Ground Control Coilovers OMP strut bar
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Sounds like you need to go to Autozone and have your check engine light codes pulled (for free). You don' replace the MAF unless that's which code is being tripped... blindly replacing parts on these cars can get really expensive.
Brad Noon '99 SE MTX 3 point oh my God H.O. 179HP/178TQ BNMotorsports Floormats, powder coating, TB optimizing, Gutted cats, etc BNMotorsports is now the preferred distributor of Contour/SVT/Mystique Indiglo style gauges!!!bnmotorsports@msn.com
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I think you'll get more results from a bigger TB. Even an optimized TB can make a very noticable difference in throttle response and mid/upper end pull. You can also optimize your MAF for a better flow.  .  Thin and smooth the post and enlarge & bevel the input bore
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Joined: Jun 2001
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I just put on a 65mm TB from a 98 mustang GT. It took me about 3 hours to do. Fortunately I had guidance from people that have done it them self's. We optimized the TB removed and bent some of the tabs and it was a simple bolt up. It goes well this the BAT pipe and my 75mm MAF.
ED
"Some stuff has been done to to the car."
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Joined: Sep 2000
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A 65mm TB has shown losses on every car's "posted dyno" testing to date. From near stock to moderately modified.
Personally I can not tell the difference between my elongated & optimized 60mm and the optimized 65mm. I am currently very heavily modified & normally aspirated.
When I tested them last fall the 65mm lost power. I would have considered myself medium to heavily modded at the time.
Personally I would ditch you current airfilter. Get a K&N. Plus I would clean the MAF element (electrical parts clener & a Q-tip)
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K&N, no my friend, Get an AFE!!! 
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Joined: Aug 2001
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i been thinking of changing to a 60mm throttle body and upgrade the MAF. Is there a big bore MAF that you can just replace the existing MAF without any tuning mods to fool the PCM? or is this a quite simple process anyway?
Mondeo ST24 with RSAP body kit. 17" DOTz's on 215/40/17 goodyear F1's (very good tyre) EBC TURBO GROOVE FRONT AND REAR DISCS (rotors)(warped fronts exchanged under warrenty) EBC GREEN STUFF PADS (voted no1 in uk performance ford tests) k&N induction kit throttle body butterfly mod SHM HEADERS, Y & CAT Custom Exhaust System Ecotec Valve more mods to come... ice sony XR-M510 head unit sony 656 changer(cdr/cdrw/cdtext compatable)
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You have a 96SE.....and there is a CEL? Have you checked all your underhood wires? My CEL was caused by cracking wires. How do I know. I replaced them all...and no more CEL. The wires are most easily seen on the left hand side of the UIM, look in between the intakes to the fuel rail. If you see any cracking...on any wires...this is your culprit.
If your car has under 100,000K miles any cracked wiring MUST be replaced free of charge!! Yes....free of charge!!
If you want more info PM me!
95 Mystique LS Young America edition, V6, MTX, Yeah...it's stock. Now with new underhood wiring!!! My Profile Moderator of the Florida Contour Enthusiast Group
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I just replaced the wires with 9mm Ford Racing earlier in the summer. I did alot of driving after that though so they should have about 3k on them.
Demon SVT, thanks for the tip with the electrical cleaner. Like an idiot, I sent intake cleaner through it trying to clean it. Do you think I did alot of damage to the MAF doing that. The CEL has yet to go on again though.
On another note....what's the name of the filter that has the hose at the end that can run into the wheel well? At least it looks like it can run there? Would anyone recommend the ractive filters that already have a built in heat shield?
96 Contour LX V6 red ext. with tan leather int. All options except ABS(who needs brakes anyway) Bosh+4 plugs and 9mm Ford Racing wires OBX racing intake Aerospeed DTM style muffler with 2.25 custom catback piping - no res BAT struts Ground Control Coilovers OMP strut bar
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Originally posted by Neil: On another note....what's the name of the filter that has the hose at the end that can run into the wheel well? At least it looks like it can run there? Would anyone recommend the ractive filters that already have a built in heat shield? BAT sells a filter kit with a hose on the end. Personally I would stay away from any filter that had an inverse coned top. I do not think the tiny ractive filter & it's worthless heatshield are any good at all.
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