Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance 3L valves in 2.5L

To install 3L valves in a 2.5, what is involved..than pulling engine? Is it a difficult job once heads are off? Are upgraded springs/retainers needed or available. Would love a price "estimate" to both do just the valve install (if heads were shipped) and to remove /replace heads (basically do the job in your shop) from Terry or Brad (on or off forum).

Do you think this is a good next step after getting LIM & UIM all port matched out to 35mm or so, big t.body/MAF meter, headers & exhaust, with A/F tuning last? Yeah, this was my thought to do last as a surprise mod for you all, but now the impending CEG collapse has accelerated my question....Thanks

I am thinking the same thing regarding 3L valves.
LIM & UIM port matching pricing too.

I think we can get 250 FWP out the engine. Scotty, give it all she's got!

Even those butterflies are in danger.

Heads need to be m/c and larger inserts fitted...

Dan what do you mean by the Impending CEG Collapse!!! Since I haven't been coming on the boards lately much often, I'm not up to par with alot of things...Thanks

OH Well never mind, I found out the scoops and I've already sent money, Thanks

i think dom on fordcontour.org did the 3.0L valves on his 3.0L short block.

Nope, not that I know of. The only two 3 liters with the 2.5 heads and 3 liter valves are jjennings (David Z's old engine) and Warmonger. IIRC, Tom said his cost under $500 to get done at a local shop. I've got the same quote from a local place here too.

The 3.0L valves will fit the 2.5L heads with out any problems. The overall length and the stem diameters are the same between the valves. I think all you need to do is bore out where the valve seats sit, and then open up the ports in the head to match. Everything else should be the same as a regular valve job. I bet you would use the same valve seats that the Taurus uses to. That would make the seats easy to find for the machine shop that is going to do the valve job. You basically need to have the ports opened up to do this. Why not go all out? Have the heads ported all the way. As soon as I get my hands on a good set of heads that is what I am going to do to. I have the bigger lower intake already. I'm just going to have the guy I use for port work open the intake and exhaust ports up to the edge of the gaskets. Then I'll have him port match everything else. I may even have him match the horrible stock exhaust manifolds to the heads if I don't have the money for headers in time. I think 250@ the wheels is possible with a 3.0L. It's my eventual goal. I would like to see it with stock cams. My car with a 3.0L, the big lower intake, an open intake and a SHO Shop Y-pipe made 215 @ the wheels through the STOCK exhaust!! I had a set of U/D pulleys to. There has to be 35hp in there.

Roger

well my thought is that at least on later SVTs (I understand port size increased in 98 or so?) the intake ports are already 34mm, which is the size of the 3L valve seat opening. So asside from opening up the port around the valve seat where it tapers down to 31-32mm, I can't see a reason to open ports up to BIGGER than the valves. Exhaust side may be another story..not sure of ports sizes.

Experts feel free to correct my errors..

Often ports neck down right before the valve to increase gas velocity just before going into the chamber. This also keeps fuel from puddling on the back side of the intake valve.