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This may be the same problem as described in the FAQ or a previous thread -- I'm afraid I'm not knowledgeable enough to discard the unimportant details, so please point me in the right direction.


Twice in the past two weeks my 2000 Ford Contour, 85000 miles has died on the side of the highway. The mechanics have been unable to reproduce the issue.

First case-- driving for about four hours, in Florida, car began hesitating a bit then lost power altogether. We coasted to the side of the road. No warning lights on. After a while, we were able to start again. Oil was low, so we added a quart. Otherwise drove home (another seven hours) ok.

Second case -- Driving in Louisiana. On the road for about an hour and a half, stuck in traffic for about 45 min. Again, car hesitated then lost power altogether. Oil, check engine, and battery lights all came on. Sat a bit. Turned it back on, the warning lights came on again. Sat a little longer, car started ok, no warning lights, drove to gas station -- lots of hesitation but car did not actually stall. Sat at gas station a bit; started again, warning lights on. Sat and waited for tow truck; by the time he got there, car started fine, no warning lights.

Can anyone diagnose?

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Welcome . Go to Autozone or Advance and get the Check Engine light (yellow light on instrument panel) codes read (free service). Then post the exact codes.

It could be a bad fuel pump. Is it worse when the fuel is low in the gas tank? A fuel pressure test should confirm that.


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maybe ignition module when they are goin bad you get similar signs. wont start right after stalling but when it cools it will start right up. right?

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I drove for about 2 hours today and mine just died. It will only start and die.I could only put it in drive from neutral. it will stay on above 2500 rpm's then it dies as I get to a stop or below 2500 rpms....Is this the same thing? 99sesport 2.5 v6 automatic......

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I changed my fuel pump a year ago......

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Hiddendragonse,

It could be the fuel pump again if the sock was not removed. But you should check/clean/change the IAC valve first.

Also get the CEL codes read at Autozone or Advance Auto and post the codes.

Idle Air Control Valve.
IAC cleaning
from Ray's UIM/LIM how to in Duratec Maintenance how to.

"Replacing the IAC gasket:
(From IAC faq)
Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long.

The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience." Ray.

http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=931756&Forum=v6maint&Words=UIM%20aide&Match=And&Searchpage=1&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=931756&Search=true#Post931756

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.

4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.

5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.

6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.

8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.

9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).

10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.

Installation

1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.

Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.

2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12

4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).

and from Autozone.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/ca/9b/0900823d801bca9b.jsp

Last edited by Tony2005; 07/29/06 01:41 AM.

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could over filling the fuel tank do this?

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what is a sock?

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Originally posted by hiddendragonse:
could over filling the fuel tank do this?



Actually, low fuel levels could do it. If the fuel pump is often above the fuel level, it could heat up. Long trips and hot weather will exercabate it.


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I have had pre-cat codes for the last 3 yrs.

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