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Originally posted by chris8852:
....I dont want to "disable" the parking brake light as such... The parking brake and whatever this problem is seem to be on different circuits since if I pull the brake the light gets stronger.
So if I could isolate the circuit, I could cut the wire and the light would still work for the parking brake.
... and these people from my church are letting me buy it from them for $1400......
You may have a loose ground. Some wiring schematics from Autozone (not sure if it will help you though).
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1e/b3/2d/0900823d801eb32d.jsp.
You may want to consider buying a Haynes Manual from Autozone or Advance.
A car in that condition is probably worth less than $500. And most will not touch a car if it can't pass safety inspections in VA. Plug in the numbers at www.edmunds.com
Last edited by Tony2005; 07/24/06 01:40 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Actually, I took it to two inspection stations and neither of them noticed the car had ABS. It was the third place I took it to, asking them to address the problem of the light, that noticed it had ABS.
If I can isolate the circuit and disable the light without disabling the parking brake light, I should be good to go.
I would just take it back to one of the same inspection stations as before that didnt notice the ABS.
Last edited by chris8852; 07/24/06 09:26 PM.
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
You may want to consider buying a Haynes Manual from Autozone or Advance.
A car in that condition is probably worth less than $500. And most will not touch a car if it can't pass safety inspections in VA. Plug in the numbers at www.edmunds.com
I have the haynes manual. It doesnt help with this problem any as the schematics are not detailed enough.
They show the electrical schematics for the ABS with traction control, and show the wire for the ABS light, but dont show the wiring for the brake light.
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Originally posted by chris8852:
...
I have the haynes manual. It doesnt help with this problem any as the schematics are not detailed enough.
... but dont show the wiring for the brake light.
Okay, I pulled out the Haynes manual. On Diagram 1, Starting, charging, warning lights and gauges (Chapter 12), it shows From Instrument cluster connector C808b/3 (Pin 3), Black/Yellow goes to Low Brake Fluid Sensor (in the brake fluid reservoir). From there, two wires, (1) Black to ground, (2) Black/Blue to fusible link. From fusible link, Black/Red to Handbrake warning Switch (handbrake lever). Check wiring to and from these items. Good luck.
Instrument Panel Access
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1012899&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=
Need to remove console to see parking brake switch.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/da/e7/0900823d801bdae7.jsp
Parking brake cable access
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/d9/47/0900823d801bd947.jsp
Last edited by Tony2005; 07/24/06 10:31 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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According to this diagram if I disconnect the connector to the low fluid switch, the light should turn off completely, since the handbrake warning switch (black/red on switch side, black/blue on fluid connector side) is wired to the fluid switch connector as well.
Not only is that not the case, but my low fluid switch only has two leads, black and black/yellow. When I pull the handbrake the brake light still gets brighter when the fluid switch is disconnected. The diagrams are wrong, or the car is not wired according to the diagrams. The latter was obvious from the beginning.
I jumped the wires in the fluid switch connector to see how it would act in that case... The brake warning light gets brighter, just like when I pull the handbrake. And when I pull the handbrake while the switch connector was jumped, it doesnt get any brighter, since it was already brighter from the connector being jumped.
What this tells me is that there is another circuit turning this light on.
Unless its another light under the dash that is loose or in the wrong spot? Is that even possible?
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Originally posted by chris8852:
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What this tells me is that there is another circuit turning this light on.
Unless its another light under the dash that is loose or in the wrong spot? Is that even possible?
Does your car have Daytime Running Lights? I think the Parking brakes switch also has a circuit which goes to that. That might be another circuit to check.
Check by unplugging the relay (R1 in the Power Distributio Box next to the battery). If the issue goes away after unplugging the DRL relay, then you know that circuit is the problem.
http://www.contour.org/php/displaypics.php?dir=/FAQ/img/drl
Last edited by Tony2005; 07/25/06 11:43 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by SVTGT350:
FIX THE DAMN PROBLEM!!!!!! Your ABS system is an integral part of your normal brake system. Problem with ABS equals problems with brakes. FIX IT!!!!!! 
If the BRAKE light is on due to a fault, the ABS system is AUTOMATICALLY forced off line. Cool it.... The ABS system is not the issue by itself in this vehicle or this thread.
ABS system fault light alone is NOT a cause for failure in Virginia. See 19VAC30-70-80(D)(2). The BRAKE light is a cause for rejection. See cited reference.
There are three things that are supposed to turn on the BRAKE light:
1) The ignition switch while in START position. This is the bulb "proveout" and is part of the inspection procedure.
2) Parking brake switch. Should turn on the light then the parking brake is set and is also part of the inspection procedure.
3) Brake fluid level float switch. Should turn on the lamp if fluid level is low.
The output of each of these switches is hardwired together and provides a ground to the low side of the BRAKE bulb. This cicuit is also fed into the ABS control module.
If the input circuit of the ABS control module has an internal partial short (as opposed to a dead short), you have a low resistance short to ground that is causing the dim BRAKE light. Easiest quick test is to simply unplug the ABS control module and see if the dim BRAKE light goes off. If it doesn't, you have a wiring harness or instrument cluster fault that is causing a low-grade short to ground.
The ABS control module is mounded in the engine compartment below the brake booster. A real bear to get to.
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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First, Im glad I dont live in VA...Ive never even heard of "safety inspections." Though, I must say, not a terrible idea.
Im no mechanic...but here's my thoughts.
One, your talking about a 4cyl. Im not sure the car is worth these problems youre having. Not to say you should reconsider...thats up to you. But it seems like the car has a pretty serious problem.
I am however, electrically inclined. Electrical problems are pretty serious deals...especially when you have somewhat exhausted the obvious fixes. My buds '51 Ford caught fire last week due to what seemed initially like a MILD electrical issue.
If youre serious about purchasing this car, I would spend the extra money and take it to a dealership. DONT FIX IT THERE! Just have them check it out. As much as I hate the dealers...for the diagnostic piece...they are really the best bet because they know the cars better than joe-mechanic would.
To be frank, Im surprised this car has ABS on it...and I think this may be the safest way to really resolve the issue.
1997 Contour SE
2.5L V6 Duratec
~Infamous Raging Howler Monkey~
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This is a dirt-simple electrical problem. Any electronics or electrical technician worthy of that title should be able to pinpoint the problem area in thirty minutes with the information I gave since I already did the research. If it's a wiring harness defect, locating the actual point in the harness is goning to take additional time. Quote:
Ive never even heard of "safety inspections." Though, I must say, not a terrible idea.
Be careful what you ask for. Your state legislators might be reading this......
Ask the Germans about their TUV inspections....
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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