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Symptoms: Car won't rev, slow above 4k RPM
Knowns: Dealer says the IMRCs don't open
Question: How do I test this? Should I attempt to manually actuate them with a tool somehow? Is the broken cable visually obvious or do I have to disassemble it to figure it out?
Car is a daily driver, anything I need to have 'on hand' to reassemble or ensure that its not down for days waiting for parts?
Thanks Scott
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"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Doh!
1998 SE Sport V6 ATX with 134k miles on it.
Scott
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Last edited by Tony2005; 07/20/06 01:29 AM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Thanks Tony. I have no codes, CEL is clear. Dealer told me that the IMRC were not working and that the computer had a code when I had it in last year for the firmware for the O2 sensors. I don't have the code anymore, I think it was in the 8000 which I dismissed as bogus.
It was actually those articles which made me wonder how to tell if its the cable or the unit itself.
The relocate one is interesting, hadn't seen that, will check it out.
Scott
Edit - Maybe my question is just too stupid. Maybe I just need to rev the motor up watching the actuator and see if the cable moves or not to tell if its the box or the cable? The foundation of my question is, how do I know which piece is broke. Sorry if that's just too basic.
Scott
Last edited by avu3; 07/20/06 01:48 AM.
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Last edited by Tony2005; 07/20/06 01:53 AM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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To note:
After testing for cable movement, don't automatically deem the IMRC or linkage to not be a problem.
the IMRC box may be PULLING the cable, and brass bar (which links one set of secondary plates to the other set), but the bushings that connect the other side of the rod to the secondaries may have disentegrated (common). You will still SEE the bar move, but that bar isn't pulling the plates open as it should. So.. just because the bar is MOVING doesn't MEAN that both sides of the secondary runners are opening up. It just means that the IMRC is trying, and working.
You would still have to verify linkage operation, and movement (no binding closed from carbon, etc..)
I would suggest an intake rebuild if you haven't done so in a while. Then an intake maintenance schedule utilizing Big Jim's "on car" method every 10K miles or so.
During the rebuild you can physically see the state of the plates, carbon buildup and secondary bar/bushings condition.
The rebuild and the maintenance cleaning methods can both be foundin the duratec maintenance forum, in the FAQ, under UIM/LIM
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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mine went out and didnt throw a code. heres the test. have someone look at the IMRC linkage while you rev the car to 4000 in neutral. if it doesnt move, it doesnt work. haha!
you can also go to a junkyard and buy one off a taurus for like 5$ even though the cable is too short, you can plug it in and see if it works, then compare to yours. thats what i did
1998 CSVT
NX stage 1 ford EFI kit
MSD dis-4
B&M short throw
K&N short ram intake
Fsvt Euro 17's
Trubendz 2.5" exhaust
Spec stage 3
249.9 HP 258.2 TRQ clutch slipping the whole time
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Or.. uhm... rev it yourself, without needing help, and see for yourself, as stated above, and in the link.
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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