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I've been searching through the aesthethics and didn't find EXACTLY what I think I need answered but here goes anyways if you guys can help. For a mystique, is it easy and should I remove the rear reflector when I intend to paint it body colour? Secondly, would my steps be simple as Sand, Prime, Paint, Paint again, clear, and clear again? Third, when sanding, would I use 400grit Sandpaper, 220, or what? What do you guys recommend? I know 400 is for sanding the prime, but would just using a regular rattle can work fine? If you guys can help out with that, Im going to go for it  .
1998 Mercury Mystique LS
- Looking for SVT EXHAUST, SVT Rear bumper (silver frost) and ANY rocker mouldings (side skirts)
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Well when i did my tour i took it off and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol..And i sprayed a flat black spray paint on it and let it dry and sprayed a clear coat and let dry and then another clear coat..Look awesome..I didnt sand or anything like that..I bought some spray thats for plastics to help make the paint stick better.and the spray paint i used is meant for plastics..Need anymore info let me know 
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Originally posted by m4gician:
For a mystique, is it easy and should I remove the rear reflector when I intend to paint it body colour?
its just liek any other contique, 4 bolts IIRC. its easy and if i were doing it, id take it off. less chance of overspray on the car. just my opinion
Originally posted by m4gician:
Secondly, would my steps be simple as Sand, Prime, Paint, Paint again, clear, and clear again?
pretty much. i wouldnt sand the unpainted reflector. just make sure its clean and wax free and start with the primer. the more clear...the shinyier it will be!
Originally posted by m4gician:
Third, when sanding, would I use 400grit Sandpaper, 220, or what? What do you guys recommend? I know 400 is for sanding the prime, but would just using a regular rattle can work fine? If you guys can help out with that, Im going to go for it .
you could start out with 400 or so, but as you get more and more coats of paint on, go down to a super smooth wet sand paper. if go as far as 200 grit, for a nice look! HTH
kevin m
98 T-red mystique gs
zetec ATX
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when you say 200 you mean 2000 right? because it doesn't make anysense to get coarser :d.
1998 Mercury Mystique LS
- Looking for SVT EXHAUST, SVT Rear bumper (silver frost) and ANY rocker mouldings (side skirts)
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yeah...2000 sorry about that. its late and my finger wasnt working right haha. glad you caught that 
kevin m
98 T-red mystique gs
zetec ATX
| my ride |
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You shouldn't use 2000 grit inbetween coats of paint or clearcoat. It is great for final clean-up and wet sanding, but will make the surface to smooth for the paint to "bite". Go 800 grit between coats to give the paint something to adhere to. That is, if you need to eliminate Orange peel. You may not even have to sand if the paint lays down nicely. Oh, and one more word of the wise... PATIENCE! I've F***ED up so many jobs becasue I was to damn impatient to wait for the paint to dry/cure before I touched it, or put on another coat. Let the primer set a good few hours in the sun before you seal it with paint, and then let the paint cure at least a day before youy lay the clearcoat out. Otherwise you are sealing in the gases that want to escape from the underlayers, and that is when you get bubbles 
The relentless pursuit of unrealness
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
2000 SVT Contour
-Toreador/Tan
-Build #363
-121ooo miles
-priceless
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ya I was thinking that, I gotta buy another can of body colour paint, but thanks. My rattle can right now is really low.
1998 Mercury Mystique LS
- Looking for SVT EXHAUST, SVT Rear bumper (silver frost) and ANY rocker mouldings (side skirts)
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Also, would a hair dryer for example speed up the process or is that not recommended?
1998 Mercury Mystique LS
- Looking for SVT EXHAUST, SVT Rear bumper (silver frost) and ANY rocker mouldings (side skirts)
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Originally posted by Scottster:
You shouldn't use 2000 grit inbetween coats of paint or clearcoat. It is great for final clean-up and wet sanding, but will make the surface to smooth for the paint to "bite".
Go 800 grit between coats to give the paint something to adhere to. That is, if you need to eliminate Orange peel. You may not even have to sand if the paint lays down nicely.
Oh, and one more word of the wise...
PATIENCE!
I've F***ED up so many jobs becasue I was to damn impatient to wait for the paint to dry/cure before I touched it, or put on another coat. Let the primer set a good few hours in the sun before you seal it with paint, and then let the paint cure at least a day before youy lay the clearcoat out. Otherwise you are sealing in the gases that want to escape from the underlayers, and that is when you get bubbles
Yeah thats what happend when I painted my tail lights, if you go to that EGL meeting you'll see what I mean.
It may take hours but yeah, be patient my rear looks horrid after I rushed the clear coat and it fugged up. Now it looks like 
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