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Originally posted by projectSHO89: Originally posted by ffos2: My coolant strength is alrite ! As Tony suggested, I bougth a coolant tester, the coolant tester suspends four balls which according to the coolant tester manual is alrite.
Coolant concentration has little to no effect on cooling system performance.
Time to lay off suggesting this for engines that appear to be running "too warm".....
Steve
Steve (projectsho89), try this for YOUR Contour. Drain the cooling system. Then just put water in YOUR Contour's cooling system, instead of 50/50 coolant and see if the car overheats.
Then drain the cooling system again. Put just antifreeze (100 percent solution) in the cooling system and see if it overheats.
I can assure you, on both occasions, the temp gauge will hover close to the red zone. 
Last edited by Tony2005; 07/17/06 01:24 AM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by Tony2005: Originally posted by projectSHO89: Originally posted by ffos2: My coolant strength is alrite ! As Tony suggested, I bougth a coolant tester, the coolant tester suspends four balls which according to the coolant tester manual is alrite.
Coolant concentration has little to no effect on cooling system performance.
Time to lay off suggesting this for engines that appear to be running "too warm".....
Steve
Steve (projectsho89), try this for YOUR Contour. Drain the cooling system. Then just put water in YOUR Contour's cooling system, instead of 50/50 coolant and see if the car overheats.
Then drain the cooling system again. Put just antifreeze (100 percent solution) in the cooling system and see if it overheats.
I can assure you, on both occasions, the temp gauge will hover close to the red zone.
I think Steve is meaning that as long as the concentration is in the ballpark, then the cooling system will do it's job for most conditions. The correct concentration really matters at extreme temps. The correct operation of the fans, thermostat, sensor and pump would have the most affect on the operation of the cooling system.
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Originally posted by stickyjazz:
I think Steve is meaning that as long as the concentration is in the ballpark, then the cooling system will do it's job for most conditions. The correct concentration really matters at extreme temps. The correct operation of the fans, thermostat, sensor and pump would have the most affect on the operation of the cooling system.
How do you know the concentration is in the ballpark if you don't test it?
A $5 tester will definitely let you know if the concentration is in the ballpark.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Tony,
Straight (distilled) water is a far better heat transfer agent than is coolant (ethylene glycol or similar compounds).
I ran my 89 SHO for a whole summer on nothing but water the first year I had it as I was constantly working on trying to revive the cooling system and to repair its many problems that it had when I obtained it. Straight water is an excellant coolant for summertime use all except for those pesky issues of corrosion and pump lubrication. Water Wetter from Redline is a good supplement for those cooling systems to overcome those issues.
Running straight coolant (undiluted) would cause the engine to run slightly hotter since it's a relatively lousy heat transfer agent. However, it won't cause an overhieating problem if the rest of the system is operating correctly,
The pressure in the system is one of the more important issues that gets overlooked. As long as the system stays pressurized, the boiling point of the coolant (whatever it is) is raised substantially and it continues to transfer heat as well as it can.
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Originally posted by projectSHO89: ...The pressure in the system is one of the more important issues that gets overlooked. As long as the system stays pressurized, the boiling point of the coolant (whatever it is) is raised substantially and it continues to transfer heat as well as it can.
Steve
Most engines, are designed to operate efficiently around 230 F to 250 F.
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200308/ai_n9294683
If it is distilled water, it boils at 212 F. With the build up of pressure, the boiling point will go up, but not much higher than if it had coolant in it. If it boils, heat will not be transferred from the engine as efficiently. The increased pressure assists the coolant to flow faster and transfer heat away from the engine faster too. Yes, the increased pressure is very important as it assists in the transfer of heat from the engine.
Running straight coolant will cause the engine to overheat (the cooling system needs water and coolant to make it efficient).
I do not agree with your reasoning and you do not agree with mine. Maybe a radiator/cooling system expert lurking can sort this out. In the meantime, I will suggest what I think might be a solution and I am sure you will suggest what you think may be the solution too.
Last edited by Tony2005; 07/17/06 06:45 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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The simple fact of the matter is that running just water or coolant is BAD.In an aluminium engine water+heat+aluminium=electrolosis.Straight coolant+aluminium=acidic corrosion hastened by heat and pressure.Basically disolving your engine from the inside is bad.
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There was a problem area with these cars. Many shops have reported that Contours have been comming into the shop with the temperature guage reads hotter than it really is. You don't know how many times I have had a heart attack thinking that my car was overheating. My needle goes all of the way passed the red line, on a cold start, the needle points at "N"
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