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#1587818 06/10/06 05:05 PM
Joined: Sep 2000
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96 SE Duratec.
Waterpump exploded, I was weeks away from doing this along with several other tune ups . Engine did overheat for about 15 minutes badly, before I discovered it by hearing the fans in overdrive. This all happened hours before going on vacation.

Two weeks later...back from vacation.
Removed pump, backflushed and found most of the pieces. New pump installed with new thermostat.

Afer the pump was replaced the car started on the first turn.
Car has not been on the road yet.



I noticed that I am not getting heat inside the car.

The engine will also slowly overheat until the fan goes into overdrive at around the letter 'M' on the temp guage.

Questions:
I have only filled the engine with water. I did this just to check for leaks before refilling with 50/50 coolent.

Will this effect the cooling properties of the engine with hotter running engine?

I think the new thermostat is not working properly. I put my hand on the metal pipe running along the front of the rad to the water pump, and it does not seem to be hot at all. Is this because the thermostat does not open up? I get no heat in the car.

Also the manual states that the mounting bolts on the pump are torque to yield, and must be replaced. Nobody seems to talk about this here on the forum. Is this important?

When all this is done I will do a compression test to check for any other issues.


Thanks.





------------------------------------------------- 1996SE sports package, Duratec MTX No mods yet. 80K Kilometers. ------------------------------------------------- Wife has 1996GL Zetec ATX.
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Sounds like the thermostat is either defective or was installed backwards (if possible). Remove the thermostat and see if you get coolant flow through the radiator, if needed.

Water is fine for testing. I wouldn't leave it in there too long without a supplement to provide lubrication and corosion control.

I've never heard of the WP bolts being TTY. I know I re-used mine...

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Originally posted by jborge:
...found most of the pieces. ...



When you take out the thermostat, do another backflush before you put in coolant.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
Joined: Sep 2000
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Thanks for everybodies help.

I removed the thermostat and the engine still overheated with no heat blowing from inside the car.

Also when I drained the rad water was luke warm.

So I disconnected the hose beside the pump (going to the heater core from the pump) and backflushed through the pump filling the engine and rad with water while flushing through heater core.

I did this to make sure the pump was completely primed with water. With water in the system I clamped the hoses together again.


Now everything is fine. The pump needed to be primed or had an airpocket. Will now switch over to 50/50 coolent.

I don't remember reading anybody else having this problem, so I thought I would add this to the database.


Thanks again.





------------------------------------------------- 1996SE sports package, Duratec MTX No mods yet. 80K Kilometers. ------------------------------------------------- Wife has 1996GL Zetec ATX.

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