Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance questions on fuel pump how to

Hi, I recently bought the BAT replacement pump motor as my fuel pump is succumbing to the sock filter sickness (stumbles and or dies below 1/4 tank).

Anyway, I read the how to and had a couple clarification questions:

1) when removing the locking ring by tapping, are you actually BENDING the tabs up, or simply rotating the ring under them to free it?

2) If I am only replacing the pump motor (btw, how tough is that to do?) do i reuse the seal? Is that a good idea?

3) How should i clean up the tabs ive cut into the pan to access the pump. Should I paint them? Use electrical tape? etc to keep them from rusting/allowing water in.

4) (half serious question), how do you do all this without blowing yourself up?

Thanks.

1) You just rotate the ring - don't bend anything...I find that I need to move around the ring and alternate where I hit the ring to distribute the abuse.
2) Reuse the gasket/ring (I don't knwo where you get a new one from without paying through the ass)
3) Nothing required here; if there was water there your rear seat would always be saturated.
4) Try not to smoke or use a welder!

Thanks!

I don't smoke, but it's tough to resist the burning urge to weld.

1) See Stazi above
2) Reuse the locking ring, I'd get another gasket though, it's ~$9 from Bill Jenkins...
3) I just spray-painted mine with rust-o-leum (spelling?) paint, it's worked for almost a year with no problems including a winter. Besides, it's under the seat!
4) Don't be an idoit.

let us know how you make out with this !

i am still holding off as i have read the "panel/port" does not line up in the 99 car's with the returnless pumps . therefore , i would need metal snips to pry back the floor in-order to axis the pump .
i have also been told by garages and the Ford Dealer that the GAS TANK MUST BE LOWERED to perform the switch ! this of-course is added labour time so i am still debating as to whether i should believe this or try to switch it out through the rear seat & risk damaging the pump & having to get a tow to the dealership !

anyways , very interested to hear about it ; Cheers !

also , couldn't us ppl who have to do this just cut-off the sock & re-install the stock pump ?

Switching it out through the rear seat will not damange the pump. The hardest thing about the fuel pump is getting the fuel line off of the connection, it's a [censored] and a hald, no way around that. HOWEVER, you will notice an increase in road noise. This is because the rubber cover no longer fits in place. I solved this problem by covering the hole with layers of duct tape, not the grandest solution, but hey, it's under the seat!

I have never agreed with removing the pump through the floor. The correct procedure from ford is to lower the tank, and it isnt that hard. Also, if you buy the pump from ford, it is a redesigned housing and pump, eliminates the tiny sock that clogs. It mounts from the ring, not from the floor of the tank. (It is similar to the focus style) I changed mine (with the tank dropped!) and have had no problems since. The previous owner had changed the pump and sock at 43,000, and when I hit 44,500 the sock was already clogged, but he cut the floor.

Heres what I noticed when I dropped the tank. The filler seats into the tank, and there is a rubber gasket. On the filler, there is a sleeve that stops the filler on the tank. Mine was slightly bent, and when I pulled it out it was dirty, and the gasket was dirty. I think the problem is that the filler isn't seated properly on the gasket, and allows dirt to get in. This clogs the sock, the same problem everyone has. I wouldnt be suprised if the common problem isnt the sock, but the filler gasket.

And by the way, when the tank was out, I welded the floor back up, primed and painted it body color, and will always drop the tank from now on.

I just did this two days ago and swapped in a fsvt pump. Changing just the pump itself is not bad, the only thing you may not have is a tiny torx bit to take the screws out to disassemble. I didnt feel like going to the store so I used the dremel to slot the torx heads to accept a regular screwdriver.