Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Odd stalling problem????

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2000 Ford Contour/automatic/air conditioned/2.0L VCT. I have had a stalling problem that has me stumped. I searched the forums here as a last resort (found by searching the net after I have done all kinds of work). My problem is: when I push the rear defrost button on the dash the engine dies sometimes. The same thing happens when I turn on the a/c...the engine dies...but only sometimes. I also have a "hunting" idle where it almost dies and then revs back up. Here is a list of what has been done to try and fix the problem...oh and there are no codes (I have an autotap scan tool).

IAC removed and cleaned
ECT sensor replaced
TP sensor replaced
MAF sensor replaced
Air Filter replaced
Fuel Filter replaced
Spark Plugs replaced
Ignition Coil replaced
Water remover added to fuel
Fuel PSI checked @ idle 39-42 PSI Fluctuates

By the way all parts were replaced with new parts, and the car seems to run rich (smells like fuel). I can disconnect the MAF sensor and the car runs beautiful. Could it be that I got a bad MAF sensor from my local parts store???? Also on slight throttle tip in the engine seems to miss/hesitates. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

I failed to mention that when I can get the car to "idle" without it stalling right away the engine will hunt/stumble and then run smoooth for a second and stall, acts like the key was turned off!!

Welcome . Maybe bad MAF sensor and maybe time for a new IAC valve.

I would agree about the stalling problem. try cleaning the IAC or replacing... EVEN better.

Wait... You already did.. duh! sorry long day here Have you tried cleaning the IAT (Intake Air Temperature Sensor) It is located in the bottom side of the intake hose/pipe from your filter box to the resonator assy (Big black thing on top of throttle body) closest to the filterbox. Hope this helps.

I replaced the MAF sensor with a new unit...on this car the IAT sensor is located inside the MAF sensor housing. So, yes I did replace it. I am going to test the MAF sensor tomorrow, maybe it was dropped at the parts store, it was not packed well so maybe if it got dropped then its no good. Any other ideas, I am completely stumped. Crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor??? Why would it run perfect with the MAF disconnected???

The reason it would run perfect (at idle i presume)with MAF disconnected is because it's more or less running off of the factory idle settings so to speak, but give it some gas and it should get ticked off at you.(run like crap) actually try to drive it if the MAF is actually malfuntioning the PCM should give you a CEL and a DTC code to match. Just an idea.

Oh.. BTW check the back of the intake for vacuum leaks also check the pcv grommet inside the filter box. there is also a cap that goes over a outlet on the back of the intake manifold that can get removed when working on the vehicle ... long story short--check all your vacuum lines and intake connections , you may have a vacuum leak. if you have miss hesitation on tip in you most likely have a bad MAF or poss vacuum leak.

i had the same problem when i forgot to conect my intake air temp sensor. try replacing it or check you conector on the harness.



99 SVT contour. my buddy
-jon

The IAT sensor is part of the MAF sensor, both are plugged in and both are new. Today I bought a new IAC valve and installed it. Now the car runs even worse. The engine will start and then stall, start and stall. I started it quite a few times and tried to get it to idle. After the engine got to normal operating temp. it started to get better, I assume due to the relearn of the PCM. Feathered the gas and got it in Drive without stalling. I took it out for a twenty minute test drive and almost got stranded after the fifth or sixth time it stalled. I thought it was running better until I got home...pulled into the driveway and it stalled. Started it again and stalled. Any thoughts?? Do I need to drive it some more for the PCM to relearn. Seems like an aweful long time for a computer to relearn.

Problem Solved!!!! I just wanted to post this so people knew what was wrong with my car. As you know there were no codes at first. I did however get a code the other day, code P1245, Low load input to generator. I removed the alternator and had it tested at Advance Auto, tested good, 14.5V output. I then tested the charging circuit as outlined on EAutoRepair.com, tested fine. I threw in a used alternator from the local salvage yard just for giggles. Problem solved. Car runs GREAT! The only thing I can think of is the alternator bearings were seizing up with the heat from the engine/pressure from the belt tensioner/and the rotational speed of the alternator shaft. Just thought I would let everyone know the cure in this particular case!