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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11
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Posts: 11 |
My throttle linkage has so much play in it that when flooring the pedal, there is about another 1/4 inch to the WOT stop (According to the S-AFC, I get ~60% throttle when flooring it.)
I would like to replace the throttle body with an SVT piece. What parts besides the throttle body itself do I need for the conversion? Besides losing the traction and cruise control, what are the other side effects? How does the standard Duratec respond to the larger throttle body (i.e. noticable power gains, quicker response, loss of bottom end)?
Thanks.
1996 Contour SE, 5-speed, Black
A'PEXi S-AFC, Scorpion cat-back exhaust, MSDS Headers, SHO Shop Y-pipe, Fidanza flywheel, Quaife ATB differential, itg foam filter, Magnecors, Koni's, Eibach's, Sparco front strut brace, SHO-shop rear strut tower brace, BAT 22mm rear anti-roll bar, Wilwood Dynalite 4-piston calipers, SVT size rotors, Aeroquip brake lines, 17" OZ Superleggera's, Dunlop SP Sport 9000's
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,251
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Without changing the UIM there's no where for the extra air an SVT TB provides to go. The only improvement you will see is getting that 60% rating a little higher with a newer TB. You can keep the TC and cruise - you need to buy another cable bracket. Ask Cawong11 for the right one as his SVT came with TC enabled. With a dual-honed intake and an optimized TB I've noticed lots more torque but a small bog down low. And my car has finally stopped running rich now! You will need: - TB - TB-UIM gasket - throttle cable bracket - new accelerator cable - larger accordian tube (I used a BAT pipe - works and looks better anyway) Hope this helps! 
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,202
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Originally posted by Greg Forbes:
My throttle linkage has so much play in it that when flooring the pedal, there is about another 1/4 inch to the WOT stop (According to the S-AFC, I get ~60% throttle when flooring it.)
I would like to replace the throttle body with an SVT piece. What parts besides the throttle body itself do I need for the conversion? Besides losing the traction and cruise control, what are the other side effects? How does the standard Duratec respond to the larger throttle body (i.e. noticable power gains, quicker response, loss of bottom end)?
Thanks. FYI, you can adjust the throttle cable at the TB. There is a metal clip for the TB cable at the cable bracket that you remove, pull back on the throttle cable then ensure the TB closes by pushing back on the TB linkage. Final step is to reinstall the metal clip.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 860
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Posts: 860 |
Originally posted by Ghosst: Without changing the UIM there's no where for the extra air an SVT TB provides to go. The only improvement you will see is getting that 60% rating a little higher with a newer TB.
You will need:
- TB
- TB-UIM gasket
- throttle cable bracket
- new accelerator cable
- larger accordian tube (I used a BAT pipe - works and looks better anyway)
Hope this helps! Actually, that isn't entirely true. I machined my stock upper intake manifold at the inlet to port match my ported and polished SVT TB. It also makes quite the difference in performance. Well worth the money, but I highly recommend machining the inlet on the upper to mate properly.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 724
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Posts: 724 |
Why do you need new accelerator cable
98 V6 Lots-o-mods SOLD
88 Daytona Shelby Z TII (The beast)
87 Daytona Shelby Z TII (Holy 20 psi of boost batman!)
Mods- 3" Downpipe, Hi-Flow cat, 3" mandrel bent exhaust with Dynomax Ultra flow. Manual boost controller, TurboXS blowoff, 5th injector, large canister wastegate, Nitrous Express go-fast-be-happy kit, ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, upgraded motormounts, eibach springs, strut tower brace. Oh and 20 PSI to boot.. my oh my...
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Joined: May 2000
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Because they were revised in later models.
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