Since you are going to do it yourself, I'll give you my professional opinion on how to do it right:
First, get some isopropyl alcohol and either a toothbrush or some scotchbrite to remove the conformal coating. The IPA doesn't really dissolve the coating (once it cures, nothing really will, that's why they use that particular brand), but it will help clean up the little globs that will come off as you scour the area you want to solder.
Clean only what you want to solder to, and leave anything you aren't going to touch coated. The main purpose of the coating is to prevent salts from "growing" on the PCB surface. This is a phenomenon that results from the salts present in the atmosphere reacting with the electricity in the PCB. I don't pretend to understand it totally, but I have seen lots of pictures of this. The salts that grow on there are conductive and can cause very difficult to diagnose problems in the PCM.
It will also clean up the location you want to solder to once the coating is off. There will be some residual solder flux left over from the no-clean solder used on the PCB, and you want to make sure it is gone, since you probably won't be using the same flux (adipic acid isn't the best flux but it is very environmentally friendly - it is actually an ingredient in Jell-O!).
Make sure you are using a Sn63/Pb37 solder, since you don't want to mix solder compositions. I just bought some solder at Sears hardware and all they had was No Lead - Sn96/Ag4. Fine for introducing solder to a virgin joint, but adding the silver to a Tin/Lead solder will only serve to make the solder joint brittle.
Next, you want to use a solder wire that has a flux core. Make sure it is RMA, RA, or R flux. RMA is the least active and most common of those, R is the most active (and probably overkill, not too many people use R flux any more for electronics). Water soluble will work, but they are generally not as active as the rosin/resin fluxes. No clean fluxes suck, and you should avoid them if you can.
Once you have soldered the jumper on, you will want to clean the flux residue off the soldered surface. If you used a rosin or resin flux, use the IPA and a brush to clean it all off. If you used the water soluable, then you can use de-ionized water. Don't use alcohol on a water soluable flux or you'll just make it messier and more difficult to clean. Some water soluable fluxes are advertised as "no clean" but better get it off there anyway. Make sure you get it all off, since the flux contains acids that can react with the materials in the PCB (as well as the copper traces) and over time can ruin the board.
If your old boss has some conformal coating, you should re-coat the area you cleaned. If you can't, then it is especially important that no other conductive locations were cleaned of the coating. If you can get your hands on some, it isn't as important to only clean the coating off the area you want to solder to.
It seems simple at first, but there really are a lot of consideration to take, especialy if you are soldering to the piece that controls your powertrain. You don't want it to fail ever.
