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alright, A local guy is selling a remote startkit, but its for auto's only. Only bc of the clutch engage @ starting, i know on my protege its just a button under the clutch. But im not near my svt now to look, is there a simple way to bypass this? on a svt


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main site, how-to/faq, electronics.. clutch switch disable.

written by our very own "old fart"



'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
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I have found an even better way of bypassing the clutch that has a little extra safety included. It takes a little more work than the one found in the mod section, but in my opinion adds quite a bit of safety to over-riding the clutch permanently. It is a fairly simple mod and will not effect your cruise control operation.

If you get under the dash and look up and behind the clutch, you will see a switch with a couple of wires attached to it. (Make sure you are looking at the right switch... as there are 2 switch on the clutch... it is the one that is activated when the clutch is pressed all the way to the floor. There is a keeper pin through the switch which holds it in place so it does not become disconnected.

Remove the Keeper with a needle nose pliers and remove the plug. This will allow you to pull the wires down so you can work on them.

Take a Test Light/Probe and place the clip end on any vehicle ground. Now take your test probe end, and insert it into 1 of the sockets of the connector (I can't remember which color the wire is because mine is taped up, but it won't affect anything if you pick the wrong one)

VERY IMPORTANT!!! - MAKE SURE VEHICLE IS IN NEUTRAL!!!

Put the key in the ignition and try starting the vehicle. If the vehicle doesn't turn over, insert your test probe end into the other socket and try turning the vehicle over again. If you can't get either socket to work, check to make sure your test probe is properly grounded and that the probe end is making contact in the socket.

Now that you have found the correct wire, take about a 10ft length of 16-18 gauge wire and strip back a small amount of the insulation on the clutch wire or use a scotch lock connector and tap into the clutch wire. I prefer stripping back the insulation, wrapping the wire, soldering, and taping, but for this application a scotch lock will work just fine as no current is being drawn through the wire.

Next, strip back a small amount of insulation from the other end of your newly added wire and ground it to any vehicle ground and check to make sure the vehicle turns over. Re-connect the clutch switch and put the keeper back in place.

Now remove the center console... if it is a 95-97 there are three screws under the arm rest and one on each side in the front. If it is a 98+, there are two screws in the front (one on each side) and 2 in the rear (one on each side). There is also additional instrustions for removing the center console in the "mods/parts"-"How-To" section of the forum.

Route your newly added wire from the clutch switch to the parking brake. Cut off any excess wire that is left, but leave a couple of inches to work with. Strip back the insulation and add a crimp style female connector to it. Now remove the female connector that is currently on the parking brake switch and tape it up. (You will no longer have a parking brake indicator on the dash when you set your parking brake, and you cannot tap into the current wire that is already on there or else it always lets you start the vehicle!) Next, connect your female connector from your new wire on the male spade end from the parking brake switch.

Re-install the center console, and you are finished.

Your vehicle will now only bypass the clutch switch if the parking brake is set. This is safer than always having the clutch bypassed, as you will have to make sure the parking brake is set in order to start the vehicle without the clutch actually being pressed in.

Sorry this post got so lengthy.

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My method is WAY easier.
Find the switch that disengages when you depress the pedal (there are two on the clutch). You want the one that disengages FIRST - you'll see what I mean as you depress the clutch slowly while looking up at the switch.

Once you located the switch. unplug the harness from the switch and insert a simple staple into the harness to jump the two sides together and close the loop, and you're done. You can slide the plug back onto the switch, but don't force it down cos it wont go all the way due to the staple being in their. Placing it back onto the switch just prevents it from damgling around.

PS - yes I did this on my contour and it worked.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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yes yours is easier but 1SWT4DR seems to be more safe since you have to have the parking brake on to start the car.


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Originally posted by BlackE1:
yes yours is easier but 1SWT4DR seems to be more safe since you have to have the parking brake on to start the car.




Wouldn't it just drag the rear wheels?


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Yes, technically.. they are going off an assumption that you will place the car in neutral and THEN pull the e-brake.

IF you pulled the e-brake and left it in gear, then yes.. it would pull the car forward...


'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.


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Too bad there isn't a neutral safety switch.


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Originally posted by muntus:
Too bad there isn't a neutral safety switch.



hmmmm... it couldn't be that hard


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I know how to do it!
neutral switch that is!

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