Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General General Jacking points

So I break out my new floor jack and had the hardest time trying to find suitable places to places it. Not to mention you can't go too far under cause the car is so low. I finally gave up and used my home made ramps. The reason I didn't go with the ramps first was 1) I figured the jack and jack stands would have been faster & 2) the ramps are big and heavy.

Anyone been through this?

Yes, I usually use the ramps too. When I do need to jack the car at home, I use a floor jack. I use the jack points. I have a block of wood that I place between the jack and the car with the jack point covers removed. You need to find wood that will take the pressure and not break apart.

Although I have metal ramps with extenders I have heard that the plastic Rhino Ramps by Blitz will fit under an SVT. You can find them at Pep Boys as well as other places. Wall Mart may have them too as I have seen Blitz gas cans there.

About a month ago I got a flat at the end of my drive-way. I limped back to my garage, and the next day I borrowed a friend's hydrolic jack (I don't trust that skinny thing they stow next to the spare). The best way I found to jack the rear-right side of the car was to roll the jack in from the rear bumper (using the extension) and lift the car using the right body (or "pinch") rail, a little forward from the rear tire. It was tricky, but possible.

Yeah, I tried the jacking points but thought I was beginning to crack the side skirts. I remembered someone saying to use wood, so I tried but it kept splitting. Thanks for the ideas everyone.

Black on Black is right - there are suitable jacking joints at all 4 corners of the car. The rear ones are hard to find without a flashlight.

I have experience jacking up the car (floor jack) twice a year to put snows on/off.

Don't use the designated jack points that are cut out from the ground effects if you are using a floor jack!

In the front, the frame rails should be obvious. They're just rear of the front of the front doors, and a ways in.

In the rear, take a flashlight and look hard for a rail that looks like it loops down from high up. That is part of the frame. There is just enough room to put the floor jack there and it's just low enough to afford a fully extended floor jack to raise the rear corner off the ground.

It's sort of hard to describe, but the rear jacking points are rearward of the rear cutout for the scissor jack.

I used to jack the rear of the car by the cross member of the rear suspension, but that was really high up and a pain to access because of the dual exhausts.

Now that I discovered the exposed frame in the rear, it's easy!

Kerry

I got my Rhino Ramps at Walmart. The 'tique was too low for the yellow metal ones you see around. I have a bit of clearance left over too so you cool guys with SVT's should be ok

I had the same experience this weekend using my new floor jack to rotate the tires.

What I ended up doing was making short ramps out of 2x10s that only raise the car 3" so I can fit the jack under the sideskirts.

If you use a floor jack use the inner frame rail on the front!

-Andy

I made an adapter piece for my floor jack that fits into the area that is supposed to be the jacking point under the car.
I got some heavy gauge square steel tubing cut it to length, sawed a notch into it and welded a bolt through a hole drilled into the bottom. I then removed the "cup" from the jack and bolted the above beauty to the jack.
Works real nice!