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I don't have a real high power setup, but it's nice.  Anyways, I've got an mtx 421d amp. Sounds great, but at night with my headlights on at the higher volume I have not only dimming but even cutting out. While the car is in motion it does fine, but as soon as I engage the clutch and the motor gets to the lower rpm's it starts dimming and sometimes cuts out. What confuses me is I have a brand new alternator, an optima yellow top battery, AND a 1.5 farad cap... why am I still having problems?!  I was thinkin maybe a 2nd car battery would eliminate my problem? Or maybe a bigger cap?
'97 Contour GL MTX Blue
Stereo: Pioneer Headunit, Pioneer 6x8 3-way all around, MTX 421d Mono Amp, 2 10" MTX Thunder 5500's, Custom Split Box, 1.5 farad capacitor
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Joined: Sep 2004
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CEG\'er
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are you running factory cable from the battery to the altenator?
96' ATX Zetec- stock
96' ATX Zetec- Modded
Kenwood KDC-319
5.75"-2 MTX 12's
Roady XT
Custom door panels
Mystique Cluster/oil pressure
Getting repainted(in primer)
Pre98 Lip
SE skirts
Mystique front lip
dingless
badgeless
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 20
New CEG\'er
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OP
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'97 Contour GL MTX Blue
Stereo: Pioneer Headunit, Pioneer 6x8 3-way all around, MTX 421d Mono Amp, 2 10" MTX Thunder 5500's, Custom Split Box, 1.5 farad capacitor
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 498
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2004
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I'd say that could be your problem.
96' ATX Zetec- stock
96' ATX Zetec- Modded
Kenwood KDC-319
5.75"-2 MTX 12's
Roady XT
Custom door panels
Mystique Cluster/oil pressure
Getting repainted(in primer)
Pre98 Lip
SE skirts
Mystique front lip
dingless
badgeless
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 20
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2006
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Anything else it could possibly be? Like I say I only have problems at night when I have the headlights on. While I'm driving it's fine but when I engage the clutch or come to a stop and the engine gets to the lower RPM's the lights dim and the subs sometimes even cut out like it's not producing enough amps at the lower RPM's. My dad and I recently redid a large portion of the wiring so I would almost eliminate that as my problem. We either replaced everything or anything that looked good we just left alone.
'97 Contour GL MTX Blue
Stereo: Pioneer Headunit, Pioneer 6x8 3-way all around, MTX 421d Mono Amp, 2 10" MTX Thunder 5500's, Custom Split Box, 1.5 farad capacitor
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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The wire could be good, just not big enough.
Scott
Mabe I WILL be Phil.
1999 Contour SVT, Tropic Green
BAT kit, K&N RU-3530+MAF, Magnecore 8.5mm, some audio goodies, Hightowers, Knauberized, tatoo by Parkedcar.
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Originally posted by Ed6407: Anything else it could possibly be? Like I say I only have problems at night when I have the headlights on. While I'm driving it's fine but when I engage the clutch or come to a stop and the engine gets to the lower RPM's the lights dim and the subs sometimes even cut out like it's not producing enough amps at the lower RPM's. My dad and I recently redid a large portion of the wiring so I would almost eliminate that as my problem. We either replaced everything or anything that looked good we just left alone.
I get the same problem w/ a completely stock car & sound system. For me, I notice it when I roll the power windows down. During the day, they'll roll at different speeds depending how many I'm rolling up/down, and at night it causes the lights to dim in addition.
BrApple-its all in the way it is presented...but everythign on my resume is all me
TexasRealtor-I hope you spelling improves on your resume.
MxRacer-ladies and gentlemen, welcome to ironyville. population, texasrelator.
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Originally posted by IRingTwyce: Originally posted by Ed6407: Anything else it could possibly be? Like I say I only have problems at night when I have the headlights on. While I'm driving it's fine but when I engage the clutch or come to a stop and the engine gets to the lower RPM's the lights dim and the subs sometimes even cut out like it's not producing enough amps at the lower RPM's. My dad and I recently redid a large portion of the wiring so I would almost eliminate that as my problem. We either replaced everything or anything that looked good we just left alone.
I get the same problem w/ a completely stock car & sound system. For me, I notice it when I roll the power windows down. During the day, they'll roll at different speeds depending how many I'm rolling up/down, and at night it causes the lights to dim in addition.
I have the same problems as both you guys. It seems like my drivers side windows roll down faster than the passenger side ones. It could be the motors on the other side but I don't know. My lights also dim at night with my system and if I am rolling down windows. I will be looking in to see how this thing plays out. I am interested as well.
Champagne 1995 Ford Contour LX R.I.P. - 7/11/06
V6 2.5L 24v DOHC
Oversized System
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Originally posted by GregDawg:
Originally posted by IRingTwyce: ...Originally posted by Ed6407: ...
I have the same problems as both you guys. It seems like my drivers side windows roll down faster than the passenger side ones. It could be the motors on the other side but I don't know. My lights also dim at night with my system and if I am rolling down windows. I will be looking in to see how this thing plays out. I am interested as well.
This has been happening on my car almost since day one (bought it new). I always suspected an underpowered alternator, but I remember someone on here once bragging how good the alts were that were on the Tours. So, is it the alternator, is it the battery cables, or both?
BrApple-its all in the way it is presented...but everythign on my resume is all me
TexasRealtor-I hope you spelling improves on your resume.
MxRacer-ladies and gentlemen, welcome to ironyville. population, texasrelator.
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I'd say check the following:
a) make sure the power cable to the amps from the battery are sufficient guage. Too small of a power cable over a long run will mean voltage drop and the amp will try to draw more current (amperage) to compensate or simply cut out in total.
b) make sure the alternator is putting out proper amperage. It may be the same as factory (130 amp) at a stated rpm, but the output drops as engine rpm drops. Get it load tested to make sure it is doing what it is supposed to do.
c) check the battery to make sure it is still good. I have a yellow top myself and they are good, but any battery that can't hold a charge puts that much more of a load on the alternator.
d) try things without the cap in the power stream. The cap is just another load that the alternator has to try to keep charged while providing power to everything else.
Bob Johann
SoundQ SVT
1998 T-Red SVT Contour #3088
2001 IASCA Pro Street 1-600 Champion
2002 SLAP Pro Street 1-600 Champion
2002 MECA SQL Master Class Champion
2003 IASCA StreetX 1-600 Champion
2005 SLAP Expert Street Champion
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