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#1529700 03/19/06 12:42 AM
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Does anybody know if a defective maf sensor would cause shifting troubles. I've posted before regarding my wifes 95 contour zeetec, 150,000 km. Car would experience major loss of power and severe idling trouble with hesitation when pulling away from a dead stop. The only code that ever came up was O2 sensor running lean. I finally after much heartache decided to replace it ( $140.00). After my local mechanic changed it for me I had major shifting troubles. Its an automatic and when it came out of 1st it would chirp the neoprine belt ( felt like a shift kit).I finally took it to the local ford dealer on Monday ( $58.00/hr) and he said that I had a incorrect shift ratio code and that my maf was defective. He cleaned it with something and now it works alot better but I am getting maf codes and some bucking around 80 kmh. It also seems different when it shifts into overdrive. A local junk yard has a maf sensor for $50.00 so I think I will try it but I don't know if this is causing the "bucking". Any thoughts would be appreciated. By the way, great site, keep up the good work.

#1529701 03/19/06 12:47 AM
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Scan the codes. Then clean the MAF. We have free how-tos.

95 is OBD I. You don't need a scanner for that.
http://www.contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.php?s=probs&displayid=10

MAF cleaning.
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=36
and
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=zetecmaint&Number=989728&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

and from Autozone. In addition, you don't need to remove the clamp next to the upper air filter housing. Just spray through the housing. You do need to remove the clamp between the MAF and Inlet Air Duct (accordian tube?)
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/cb/25/0900823d801bcb25.jsp

Last edited by Tony2005; 03/19/06 01:04 AM.

"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1529702 03/19/06 01:19 AM
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The TPS will effect the shifting a bit. The MAF will usually cause the engine to lean out and run poorer, not shift funny. I had a bad TPS a few months back that screwed up my idle at times. When I replaced it the 1-2 shift was smoother. It had 650-700 ohms at idle instead of 400 or so. Problem with mine was it was intermittant. Caught it in act finally. EEC test said it was OK.
Your problem sounds more like vacuum leaks, ignition or dirty injector problems. I ran a couple of cans (one per tank) of Berryman B12 through my engine. It cleaned something because I can run 87 octane with no knocking again. Probably a bit of carbon build-up...

#1529703 03/19/06 03:14 AM
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The incorrect shift ratio code is often the MLPS (manual lever position sensor). When it fails, it gives the transmission the wrong information about which gear you have selected. The MLPS is mounted on the trans where the shift linkage is attached. In the days before computer management on cars a similar switch was called the neutral safety switch (prevented starting the engine unless the trans was in park or neutral).


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited
#1529704 03/19/06 04:05 AM
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A MAF sure as hell can cause firm shifts. Think about it, what is the MAF, a load sensor.

If the thing says you have a high load, it will give more firm shifts.




#1529705 03/19/06 05:34 AM
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One way to determine if the MAF is at fault - unplug it.

Just un-plug the SOB & drive the car for a day or two. If the symptoms go away, you had a MAF problem. Clean or replace.

If the symptoms remain, the problem is elsewhere.



Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
#1529706 03/19/06 06:05 PM
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Thanks, I took it for a spin on the highway as that is where the "bucking" is most noticable. I unpluged the maf and no "bucking" so I left it unplugged.It does seem to now "bog down" at 80 kmh but maybe thats normal. I had to plug it back in as it idled like crap when cold. With the maf plugged in I am getting codes 157 and 158. My Haynes book tells me MAF ( open and shorted). Now heres my delema. A new one from the dearler costs about 500.00. A local junk yard will sell me one for 50.00. Is there anyway of checking the used maf with an ohm meter to ensure it is functionable. Considering I've allready spent about 300.00 I would really like to know. this car seems to be full of gremlins since we've had it, fix one thing and its great for a couple of weeks then we are back to where we started. Its a great car if I could only get it working properly for a while and this is the first time I got a maf code. Thanks for your help.
Cars History:
Bought it 5 years ago, odometer showed 40,000 km.
Car now has 150,000 km
replaced: tps, rear brake cyls, drivers side axle, exhaust flex hose( now needs another one) O2 sensor, plugs and wires twice, brakes all around.
Not bad over 5 years.

#1529707 03/20/06 12:09 AM
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Originally posted by cbicaper:
.. Is there anyway of checking the used maf with an ohm meter to ensure it is functionable. ...



The Autozone MAF link in my previous post has the test for a MAF.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles

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