Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance Need some experienced MTX advice

My transmission is being pulled in 2 weeks to replace a bad synchro under warantee and I'm thinking of having the garage instqall some upgrades while the tranny is out. LSD is a given. My question is what to do about the flywheel and clutch?

As of right now, My car ha 16,000mi and I'm estimating that my engine is at about 200HP crank. By the time I finish EVERYTHING, I don't expect to be exceeding 215HP. I enjoy regular "spirited" back-road drives where there's no traffic and the occasional auto-x. I'm generally very good to my clutch, only abusing it once and a while and I really like the stock pedal feel. My first question is should I or shouldn't I put a grizzly clutch in? As for the fidanzia flywheel, I understand that it'll make the engine spool up faster, but can anyone speculate on any real gains or benefits / harm? Will it just give me a 0.1 sec faster 0-60 time or will it be something that is a noticeable benefit over stock in various driving conditions?
I know that I'm asking some dificult, subjective questions, but I would love as much intelligent input on the subject as I can. (Please no "GET IT, IT ROCKS" I'd rather hear, "GET IT, IT ROCKS because......") I plan on keeping the car for many years. I realize that these are somewhat of opinion questions; you just upgrade if you want to upgrade, but I have no experience whatsoever to draw on concerning transmission upgrading so I'm asking for some advice.

Mark

One more question. Am I forgetting something? Is there any other kind of reinforcements/upgrading to be done? like moounting points?

Thanks in advance

I'd spend as much as you can afford since you are geting the tranny labor for free.

LSD, clutch, bearing, & flywheel

"bearing"?

What exactly does this do and what would I replace it with.

(I hate being ignorant!)

if I am not mistake the throw out bearing is a bearing that is on the input shaft to the transmission. When the clutch is activated the bearing pushes on the clutch fingers to disengage the pressure plate, allowing the transmission to stop spinning to change gears. Just keep in mind this was explained and showed to me once a few years ago on a 69 Mustang, but I think it is generally the same

I would say *Ensure the release bearing & slave assy are changed with the clutch*Soild hub aftermarket clutches (UE/Ram)are more fierce on take up and shock the trans & driveline more than a spring hub upgraded clutch*Fit SVT front and rear mounts/roll restrictors with the poly insert on the front and add the svt stab-shock brackets*Get your shop to upgrade the syncros/shifter forks/shifter tower if the trans is not the latest(plastic cover on the trans tower)2000+ type*

I am using a clutch master clutch because I was told, as Terry pointed out that the UNO/ and friends clutch shock the system, not good. The clutch is easy to engage and disengage, but is very and I mean VERY grabby, takes some time to learn to launch, I stalled it out a couple times trying to learn. It also grabs low on the clutch pedal, no more letting it out slowly...

Ryan

That's good info to have.

I will be avoiding clutchmasters then.

Anyone else have this problem of the clutchmaster grabbing low on the pedal???

I want a driver's clutch that grabs at the top like the stock setup is.

Where the clutch grabs on the clutch pedal should have nothing to do with which clutch you are running, when I did my zetec the Chiltons manual had very simple instructions about adjusting clutch pedal engagement hight. Also, my quaife is wonderful, much better feel out of turns and straightline launch feel much more solid and secure.

A new clutch will engage low,a worn one high...thats the way it is on a hydraulic system....the make is not a factor...